The Revitalization of Kent & Curwen: A New Era of Youthful Preppy Style
Just a little over a week ago, Kent & Curwen was primarily known as a traditional, slightly old-fashioned brand catering to the classic English prep style. However, all that changed with its relaunch under the creative direction of Daniel Kearns, accompanied by a vibrant, yet still preppy, campaign photographed by British photographer Glen Luchford.
Today, Kearns unveiled his youthful vision for the heritage brand with a 200-seat show at the esteemed Royal Academy, a fitting location that pays homage to Kent & Curwen’s origins. Established in 1926 as a supplier of ties to Oxford and Cambridge universities, the brand quickly became a key player in the British school uniform market.
Kearns’s new collection draws inspiration from the brand’s history, featuring ample blazers adorned with 3D rosette appliqués, pleated skirts, and tailored shorts in navy and charcoal wool. Classic blue poplin shirts with Sharpie-like designs evoke nostalgia for British school attire. Rugby shirts and cricket sweaters, longstanding brand staples, were reimagined in modern silhouettes, including a playful cricket sweater minidress as part of the label’s first foray into womenswear.
While reinterpreting the English school uniform is not a new concept, Kearns brings a fresh perspective by observing how uniforms are worn on the streets of London today. “The conformity set by uniforms instills a sense of belonging but also serves as a starting point to create one’s identity,” Kearns explained during a preview at the brand’s North London studio.
Further into the collection, Kearns explores the transition from the structure of a uniform to the experimentation of adulthood—a theme influenced by his son’s recent departure for university. Pieces like a burgundy bouclé jumpsuit and a chic equestrian jacket paired with oversized sunglasses capture the essence of a young woman on the verge of defining her personal style. A black gabardine trench coat with an exaggerated storm shield echoes the grandeur of an Oxford scholar’s gown, symbolizing the nostalgia for childhood left behind.
With Kearns at the helm, Kent & Curwen has undergone a transformation, blending elements of tradition with a youthful and contemporary aesthetic. The brand’s evolution under Kearns’s direction marks a new chapter for Kent & Curwen, solidifying its place in the world of modern prep fashion.