While many brand collaborations generate buzz, the partnership between Kiko Kostadinov and Dr. Martens stands out as culturally significant. This collaboration is a testament to how a shoe can shape cultural dialogue. Kostadinov’s inclusion among Dr. Martens collaborators aligns him with names like Rick Owens, Raf Simons, and Comme des Garçons, an acknowledgment that feels well-deserved based on the collection’s offerings.
Unveiled at the Dante presentation in November 2025, the Kiko Kostadinov x Dr. Martens Made in England collection marks a pivotal moment. It was Kostadinov’s first co-ed presentation, integrating his menswear with the Fanning sisters’ womenswear, and coincided with the opening of his inaugural London store.
The collaboration made a notable entrance and, months later, the shoes are now available. They launched online and are set for in-store release on March 20 at Kiko Kostadinov Tokyo, Dover Street Market Ginza, and Kiko Kostadinov Seoul. Both shoe styles are priced at £280 GBP (approximately $370 USD).
The TOE BOX Shoe: A Hybrid That Earns Its Complexity
The women’s TOE BOX Shoe is notably more expressive. It merges a traditional Oxford with a Mary Jane profile, reflecting Kostadinov’s experimental approach in womenswear. This results in a design that defies simple classification—neither entirely flat nor fully a lace-up, but somewhere in between, enhancing its appeal.
The shoe features an upper of embossed chartreuse suede paired with two-tone green leather, creating a layered, sculptural appearance. A single-eyelet lace system complements its cut-out design and triple contrast stitching. This stitching does more than embellish; it subtly nods to Dr. Martens’ heritage without replicating it.
The chartreuse suede, embossed to resemble snakeskin, envelops darker patent leather, adding depth and tension. A subtle, yet unmistakable, Kiko Kostadinov Women’s Wear dog tag is attached to the laces.
Despite its innovative design, the shoe maintains Dr. Martens’ foundational elements with a rounded toe box, Goodyear-welt stitching, and the iconic air-cushioned sole, ensuring functionality.
The STRAP Shoe: Workwear Pushed to Its Limit
In contrast, the men’s STRAP Shoe takes a more industrial approach. Presented in all black, minus the traditional yellow stitching, it resembles work equipment rather than conventional footwear, a deliberate design choice.
The main feature is a riveted, heavyweight Velcro strap system that replaces traditional laces, lending the shoe a utilitarian, almost architectural look. It invites another glance, not due to its loudness, but its unfamiliarity. The shoe is made from the last reserve of rare deadstock leather from Dr. Martens’ archive, making it inherently limited not by marketing but by material availability.
Despite its striking appearance, it retains the essential Dr. Martens features: a rounded toe box, Goodyear-welt construction, and the air-cushioned sole. The craftsmanship remains unchanged, only the design language has evolved.
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The DANTE E-WAX Book: Extending the Narrative
Complementing the footwear launch, the collaboration extends into print with the DANTE E-WAX photo book by photographer E-WAX. This book chronicles the Dante presentation, capturing the show, the store opening, and the debut of the collaboration, providing a lasting testament beyond the collection itself. Fashion moves rapidly, but tangible objects like this do not.
Release Details
Both the TOE BOX Shoe and the STRAP Shoe are priced at £280 GBP (approximately $370 USD) and are currently available online via the Kiko Kostadinov webstore. In-store releases are scheduled for March 20 at Kiko Kostadinov Tokyo, Dover Street Market Ginza, and Kiko Kostadinov Seoul. Given the limited availability, particularly of the STRAP Shoe due to its deadstock leather, waiting for in-store availability may not be advisable.
Final Thoughts
This collaboration stands out because it avoids clichés. Instead of relying on nostalgia or surface branding, it creates something novel based on shared foundations. This reinforces an essential concept: the most impactful collaborations do not merely blend identities; they expand them.
Featured image: Kiko Kostadinov/Dr. Martens
