Luchino Magliano took a unique approach this season by stepping away from the traditional runway show and instead creating a short film as a form of self-described “sabbatical show”. He transformed a small city-center cinema into CineMagliano, where he showcased his collection in a silver-screen theatrics style. In a time where resources are limited and global unrest looms in the background, small brands like Magliano’s are faced with tough decisions. However, Magliano thrives on creativity in the face of constraints.
Teaming up with British director Thomas Hardiman from Medusa Deluxe, Magliano found a kindred spirit in their shared love for offbeat, provincial communities of outcasts. Together, they created “The Maglianic”, a unique journey set on a traghetto, Italy’s no-frills ferry where comfort is not guaranteed and proximity is inevitable. Magliano’s eclectic group of fricchettoni, a distinctly Italian group of hippies and freaks, embarked on a voyage from Olbia in Sardinia to Livorno in Tuscany, the two ports that mark the ferry’s usual route. Onboard, they lounged on the deck in various states of discomfort, passing the time with games, kisses, and aimless wandering. As the sun rose, the group gathered at the bow, united in a moment of awe as they watched the dawn break over the sea. Magliano reflected on a Neapolitan proverb, “Ha da passà ‘a nuttata” – the night has to pass, emphasizing the idea that no matter how long and uncertain the journey, morning always comes.
The theme of a sabbatical and the desire to press reset resonated in the design of the collection, with elements of free camping influencing the silhouettes. Magliano described the garments as “tents for restless bodies”, featuring relaxed and slouchy pieces mixed with touches of technical precision. Drawstrings and cords were used to transform coats and blazers on the spot, giving them a lived-in, almost impromptu feel. The collection also showcased distressed workwear, but reimagined through Magliano’s refined and introspective lens. Fabrics were chosen for their porous and sheer qualities, reminiscent of the misty sea at dawn. Layers of organza and chiffon were layered into tailored jackets, creating a juxtaposition of structure and softness. A scarf folded into a lapel was dubbed “The Dawn Lapel”, embodying the blend of poetry, grit, and practicality that defines every Magliano piece.
Magliano’s unique vision and innovative approach to fashion were showcased in his sabbatical show, setting him apart in a sea of traditional runway presentations. The collection seamlessly integrated themes of journey, renewal, and creativity, leaving a lasting impression on all who experienced it.
