Iconic is an overused word that, when deployed in fashion, mostly means nothing. Few designers alive can truly lay claim to it, and fewer still who run independent brands. Marine Serre is one of them. For spring the 33-year-old designer forwent a runway show for a presentation and cocktail event. “This season we are not showing. We are building,” read the notes.

Effortless Style and Sensuality

There was plenty to build on. Sheer stretchy jersey dresses with a trompe l’oeil bra and knickers were designed so they could be thrown on without a second thought, even from the nude. Bang and done! “I want the girl of Marine Serre not to have to worry about the styling,” she said. “I don’t like the sexiness to constrain you. When I feel the most sexy is when I can breathe and I can move.” The menswear pieces, though subtler in their sensuality, were also body-conscious, highlighting the breadth of the shoulders through the chest seams on denim jackets, or with trousers that hugged the thigh before flaring at the feet. “The conversation between the body and the garment, this collection is of course a lot about that,” said Serre.

Innovative Designs

Elsewhere was cotton imitating python leather, knitted and printed and extending through to men’s shirts, bodycon dresses, and pumps, complete with mini moons on the soles to negate any click-clacking. Sequins, flaming leather patches, or tulip prints were spread across the chest and crotch on mesh, denim, and leather. Plumetis, knitted into tiny moons, transformed into a knitted dress. One standout piece was the LBD in look 1 with Serre’s moon crescent embedded in wire at the sternum.

Commitment to Sustainability

Nods to Serre’s background as a tennis prodigy were evident in the navy tennis dresses, while sustainability was showcased through upcycled fabrics and repurposed materials. Vintage iron-on patches adorned boy scout-inspired looks and shirts, making each piece unique. Serre’s commitment to sustainability was further highlighted by the use of old polyester for a floral shirt, transformed into pleats.

The Future of Marine Serre

With 75 staff, the eight-year-old brand is a force to be reckoned with. Serre’s easy assurance and love for vintage pieces ensure her brand’s enduring relevance. “It’s about endurance,” she shrugged. “As a designer, I love vintage pieces, I love to study where the garments come from and I think that’s how you can renew yourself and make your garments iconic, because at the end that’s what I want.”

Gesturing to a new range of gold and silver Creole hoops, Serre expressed her desire to create another iconic piece. Her trademark crescent on the hoop will no doubt be another hit. Tout suite—iconique.