Mario Keine set himself the goal of looking at queer dating from a new perspective. Marke’s latest collection, however, was not intended to be a romanticized love story, but rather an exploration of love and the living conditions of the community over the last two centuries. “The Summer I Never Had,” drew on several eras: Edwardian silhouette met elements of 1980s Eastern European communism and 1990s Western club chic. This mélange was held together by the lightness with which Keine addressed the seriousness and topicality of the subject. While his last collections have been very heavy and theatrical, spring 2026 proved to be more subtle.

As if he had known that he would be holding his show on one of the hottest days of the year, he swapped heavy wool trousers for extra-short bloomer shorts, airy balloon pants, and sportswear-inspired snap pants. The latter, of course, with fabric-covered buttons instead of press-studs, as you would expect from Keine. Suit jackets were as flowing as the collars of many tops, and the color palette ranged from white and gray to pink with accents of black. With all the beauty and the scent of lavender blossoms on the catwalk, one might forget the oppressive fear and heartbreak that the brand addressed in this collection. It was a vivid picture of forbidden love across time and class, whose relevance sadly continues to this day.