Meet the Women Winemakers Making Waves in Georgia, One of the World’s Oldest Wine-Producing Countries

Characterized by its vast mountain ranges, deep valleys, and communal tables overflowing with delicious fare, the small nation of Georgia, situated by the Greater Caucasus, is swiftly gaining popularity among adventurers seeking extraordinary trails and authentic warmth. A customary toast can pop up anywhere, whether it’s during a supra (the traditional Georgian feast) or spontaneously shared with rangers amidst hikes in the country’s myriad national parks. Particularly notable is qvevri wine, Georgia’s signature orange or amber wine traditionally aged in clay amphorae—a practice dating back over 8000 years that has earned recognition as a “UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.”

Historically, the Georgian wine sector has been predominantly male-driven, but there has been a wave of women entering the field in recent years, pushing for more sustainable and natural winemaking practices. Many of these women emphasize organic methods and low-intervention wines while seeking to revive local grape varieties, establishing a gentler connection with the land.

Throughout Georgia, particularly in regions such as the renowned Kakheti and lesser-known areas like Imereti and Samegrelo, wineries managed by women are emerging. Below, we spotlight some inspiring figures from this female-led movement, each contributing her own distinct flair.

Baia Abuladze, co-owner of Baia’s Wine in Imereti

Upon departing the highway that links Tbilisi (Georgia’s capital) to Kutaisi (a city in western Georgia), visitors will find themselves in the serene village of Obcha, where endless vistas of small fields and grazing cattle unfold.

Here at Baia’s Wine, the winery has made its mark, attracting attention beyond Georgia’s borders with its commitment to natural wines that highlight endemic varietals specific to Imereti, such as Tsitska, Tsolikouri, and Krakhuna. Founded by Baia Abuladze in 2015, it proudly stands as one of the earliest wineries in Georgia to be operated by women. “Now, more women are visible,” states Abuladze. “Women have always been part of the workforce, mainly involved in labeling or selling wine, but their contributions weren’t recognized. Today, an increasing number of women lead wineries in Kakheti and even in regions like Samegrelo, where grapes are harder to cultivate.”

After earning her agriculture degree in Tbilisi, Abuladze returned home to manage her family’s winery, a legacy that stretches over four generations. Alongside her sister Gvantsa and her brother Giorgi, they are committed to running the vineyard sustainably. What began with two hectares has expanded to 18 hectares of both new and ancient varietals, cultivated organically. “You need specific expertise,” she emphasizes. “We have amassed about a decade of hands-on experience working with the vines.”

Although Imereti is not widely recognized as a significant wine region, Abuladze believes it has a unique story rooted in a small farming culture. “Our vineyards thrive in humid conditions, where the clay soil retains moisture, lending our grapes medium acidity. The result is an exceptionally fresh and floral profile, perfectly complementing the flavors of Georgian cuisine.”

Upon concluding a tour of the vineyard, guests can indulge in a fantastic spread of homemade Georgian cuisine, including Imereti staples like nigvziani badrijani (eggplant rolls filled with walnut paste and pomegranate). Overnight accommodations are also available, with breakfast served outdoors, boasting panoramic views of the vineyards.

Keto Ninidze, owner of Oda Family Winery in Samegrelo

Upon reaching Oda Family Winery in Samegrelo, guests are welcomed by the women tending to the beloved restaurant kitchen, surrounded by a garden and vineyards thrumming with locals and visitors. Keto Ninidze and her all-female team exemplify the inviting hospitality of this lesser-explored wine region in Georgia. They promote regional grape varieties such as Ojaleshi, along with Tsolikouri and Dzelshavi from nearby Imereti, crafting natural wines through unconventional methods. “Samegrelo has a wonderful winegrowing tradition. Sadly, even some locals are unaware of it,” remarks Ninidze.

“Samegrelo is stunning and possesses many undiscovered gems. The Martvili Canyon, for instance, has only recently gained attention,” she adds. Ninidze and her husband, Zaza Gagua, are both natives of Tbilisi who sought out a slower lifestyle. “We transformed the land into a vineyard because there was none!” she explains, noting that during Soviet times, vineyards in the area were replaced with hazelnut trees and tea bushes as wine cultivation was deemed too challenging.

The terroir of Oda Family Winery encompasses a variety of landscapes across Western Georgia, recognized for its limestone-rich soil. The winery collaborates with small family-owned partner vineyards, seeking to rediscover knowledge about the unique terrains of Western Georgia, a task that is as complex as it is rewarding. “The region showcases diverse aromas influenced by both high elevations and low valleys, with the higher altitudes boasting an abundance of floral notes.”

Ninidze’s journey into winemaking began with her husband’s initial experiments alongside friends. Her interest piqued when she found herself tasked with writing about wine as a journalist. “I lack formal education in this field,” she confesses. “However, my small-scale project was a success! We discovered a growing interest in our wines.”

Now, Ninidze stands among the prominent figures in Georgia’s natural wine movement. While continuing her writing endeavors, she published a book titled A Gently Fermenting Revolution: Women in Georgian Wine Business in 2015. “Plenty has changed since then,” she remarks. Ninidze observes that women are particularly drawn to smaller, specialized projects that emphasize organic and natural wine. “Wine has historically been a patriarchal industry, but natural wine fosters a more inclusive atmosphere, allowing individuals to enter without the necessity of formal education or familial connections.”

Guests visiting enjoy wine tastings and cooking classes that culminate in a leisurely lunch featuring various Megrelian delicacies, such as elarji (a polenta-like dish enriched with cheese) and fresh organic vegetables and herbs sourced straight from the garden, paired beautifully with Ninidze’s natural wines.

Ana Berakishvili, owner of Berika’s Winery in Kakheti

As you approach Kakheti, often referred to as “Little Tuscany” and the most celebrated wine region in Georgia, you’ll find yourself off the beaten track on the way to Berika’s Winery, navigating past expansive vineyards leading to the quaint village of Velistsikhe.

Eschewing large-scale commercial endeavors, winemaker Ana Berakishvili warmly invites guests into her family home, which encompasses 35 hectares of vineyards, complemented by fruit trees and vegetable gardens. Kakheti, renowned for its juicy tomatoes, peaches, and plums due to its favorable climate, finds Berakishvili specializing in traditional grapes like Rkatsiteli and Saperavi, producing wines in an authentic style. “In Kakheti, you must embrace the regional winemaking traditions,” she believes.

Though the estate has been in her family for five generations, Berakishvili is the first to engage in commercial winemaking. Additionally, she proudly manages the winery herself. “My family has always been in the grape-selling business, but no one ever sold wine commercially. They produced wine strictly for family consumption.” Even after growing up among vineyards, her aspirations once led her to pursue public administration in university. Ultimately feeling a calling to the countryside, she returned home.

“The industry is very male-dominated here,” Berakishvili reflects on the Georgian wine sector. “I was 19 when I began winemaking, and although I had prior experience, that’s when I first started selling my wine. At that time, I struggled to be taken seriously.” Now at 27, she focuses on natural wines and notes an increasing demand. “The interest in natural wines is on the rise, which brings me joy. The Soviet regime left a dark legacy on Georgian wine, prioritizing quantity over quality.” She seeks inspiration from Europe, experimenting with techniques like making pét-nat.

At present, she is eager to share the rich heritage of Georgian wine with visitors, particularly in Kakheti, the birthplace of the qvevri method. Tours conclude with a wine tasting, complemented by a traditional Kakhetian feast that includes staples like the beloved Georgian cucumber and tomato salad drizzled with local sunflower oil, always enjoyed with the breathtaking Caucasus Mountains in view.