In contrast to Kate Bush, Melitta Baumeister isn’t “runnin’ up that hill.” With her recent accolade as a recipient of the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and the prestigious National Design Award from Cooper Hewitt, she’s undeniably at the pinnacle of her career. However, repose isn’t in her nature. Baumeister exudes dynamic energy, often spotted pedaling her bike through New York City in her signature black dress and cap. Her presence has also established a new home at Dover Street Market in Paris, giving the impression of multi-tasking across cities.
For her spring collection, Baumeister aimed to merge the worlds of fashion and athletics. During a conversation, she shared that she was “exploring sculptural forms for movement… because we have a collaboration on a running shoe in the pipeline.” This venture marks Nike’s inaugural partnership on a performance sneaker. The campaign slogan, “Run Like No One Is Watching,” resonates through the eye-catching embroidery on certain cotton garments in the lineup. Baumeister, who has recently taken up running, confessed to feeling self-conscious while exercising. “Many fashion enthusiasts often express their identities through their attire… wanting to align themselves with their clothing or fashion persona,” she reflected.
Fans of her brand will recognize the silhouettes in this collection, notably the sweatsuit that has been a staple for years. The concept of layered shirts and dual prints on denim aims to reflect the motion blur of dynamic movement. The designs featuring padded shoulders (stuffed with tulle) were inspired by an Erwin Wurm sculptural piece that showcases a top-heavy form perched on slender legs. While some ensembles were styled with leggings, this collection is crafted more for the energetic hustle of urban life than for jogging. These designs can indeed be described as quite dashing.
