Over a decade ago, Mossi Traoré made a remarkable debut in the world of fashion by organizing a show in the surreal setting of the Père-Lachaise cemetery. While he couldn’t replicate that extraordinary influence this time around, Traoré opted for the stark backdrop of an unoccupied space on Rue Commines. Despite this shift, the haunting essence of his original inspiration remained intact, stemming from a captivating discussion he once shared with a woman who claimed to dwell in the depths of the cemetery, surrounded by tombstones and their forgotten narratives.
“I find beauty in death; it offers a serene refuge,” Traoré shared before the show. “I discover that emotions like solitude, sadness, and anger allow me to create more effortlessly than happiness does.”
His latest collection, titled “Mon Amie La Mort” (“My Friend, Death”), is a conceptual exploration of the life of that enigmatic woman, envisioning the cemetery as a vibrant neighborhood within Paris, complete with galleries, local markets, weddings, and intimate dinners lit by candles among the graves.
However, rather than dwelling in despair, Traoré channeled his creativity into the tactile elements of his designs, embracing movement. Interestingly, he is currently preparing for an exhibition that will be held at the MuCEM museum in Marseille in May. Inspired by the antics he observed during his frequent visits to France’s second-largest city—specifically, the poised umbrellas resting on the beach—his runway today showcased pleated, draped, and sculpted garments, starting with an exquisite dress that led off the collection, followed by a striking pair of black bloomers.
Returning to his roots, this collection reflects the craftsmanship imparted by his late mentor, Josette Thomas, a seamstress with a rich history as part of the atelier for the legendary Madame Grès. The most compelling pieces drew upon that prestigious lineage, characterized by white ensembles—a charming bustier top, a sleeveless summer dress with a playful asymmetrical drape, and an elegant goddess gown. In addition, opulent black pieces featured hand-pleated organza on a base of T-shirt dresses or an architectural creation that Traoré described poetically as “the bride in black.”
This season’s palette evoked the transitory colors associated with autumn, which have surprisingly remained relevant for spring. Traoré embraced a somber yet elegant assortment of hues including gray, yellow, brown, and faded rose showcased through intricate bustiers and dresses, embodying themes of fragility and resilience.
One of Traoré’s trademarks lies in his exploration of the contrasts and potential synergies between haute couture and everyday wear. Despite the seemingly morose inspiration behind this collection, walking through the stories of lives once lived brought a surprising lightness and playfulness to his artistic expression.
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