Upon entering Norma Kamali’s office, one is greeted by a display of mannequins showcasing the latest season’s attire, but notably absent is a moodboard. Kamali explains her creative process, stating, âThe collection for me never starts with âThis is what Iâm going to do,â because you canât be creative if youâre stuck with something. Youâve got to let it take you.â This approach led to the spontaneous inclusion of Western-inspired elements, such as cow prints and fringed âsuede,â in her collection. The central theme of her resort line is color, featuring a rich, rusty hue she calls foxtrot, along with shades of avocado green and toffee, each explored in various forms.
Kamali envisions a scenario where âyou throw a whole bunch of clothes together and then pick out three, [and] thatâs the perfect outfit. You donât plan that this goes with this and that doesnât.â This effortless modularity is achieved through complementary tones, allowing almost every piece in the collection to be interchangeable. For instance, a luxurious, tunic-length velvet hoodie paired with a mesh skirt might appear as a dress, but they are separate pieces. Kamali, ever pragmatic, elevates the mix-and-match concept to new heights.
The one-piece garments in the collection also stand out. Kamali reimagines a jumpsuit style once favored by Bianca Jagger, now featuring basque-waisted balloon pants topped with a sleek turtleneck instead of a halter (look 37). She describes it as âsexy, but itâs actually covered up.â Surprisingly, this description applies even to one of the more revealing items (look 63). What seems to be a micromini is actually the best-selling Bill swimsuit. Kamali shares, âThat was my first swimsuit, and itâs named after my brother.â She reminisces about the Studio 54 era, when âgirls would wear the Bill and the halter Bill dancing. Youâd sweat in it, but you were in a swimsuit, so it was perfect; and it has a panty, itâs like shorts.â
Kamali channels her creativity not just into design but also into addressing her customers’ needs, pondering, âItâs like how can you be practical and smart but make it fun?â With Kamali’s designs, practicality and enjoyment go hand in hand.

