Once a Convent, This 1,000-Year-Old Castle in the Dolomites Finds New Life as a Luxury Retreat

The culinary experience here draws inspiration from the valleys and the South Tyrol region, seamlessly blending Italian and Austrian flavors. Each evening at the Stube Badia, under the gaze of gilded cherubs, guests are treated to nourishing yet light modern mountain cuisine. Chef Alberto Toè, hailing from Veneto, crafts dishes like canederli dumplings filled with speck and topped with chives, venison goulash served on polenta, and buckwheat spätzle with plump prawns and cherry tomatoes. A consistent feature on the table is Schüttelbrot, a hard, crunchy bread with fennel and caraway, often enjoyed with local speck and olive oil. This regional bread is designed to sustain through the tough, high-altitude winters. On my last night, Anika surprised me with an exclusive Alpine Wagyu steak from Ritten’s Wagyu Südtirol, paired with a truffle-scented Barolo from the castle’s extensive wine cellar. A generous apple strudel and a variety of homemade ice creams were the perfect finale to the evening.

Though I doubted my appetite for breakfast the next day, I couldn’t resist the tempting array at the Stube. I enjoyed a window seat with blueberry-filled Moosbeernocken and more Schüttelbrot with eggs draped in speck. This meal prepared me for a day of exploration: horse riding around the sparkling Lake Dobbiaco, framed by snow-covered pines, and then visiting the Plan de Corones ski area, although I didn’t ski this time. The Castel Badia team arranged for lunch at AlpiNN by Norbert Niederkofler, a three Michelin star chef known for his “cook the mountain” philosophy, located over 2,000 meters up. The same building also hosts Lumen, a museum of mountain photography worth visiting before descending via cable cars. For avid skiers, Castel Badia offers prime access to the Dolomiti Superski area, the world’s largest ski circuit with 1,200 kilometers of groomed slopes. The property also provides customized skiing packages and seasonal experiences, from bread making with local farmers to hot air balloon rides.

Despite indulging in Alpine cheese, exclusive wagyu, and rich Barolo, I frequently returned to the Schüttelbrot. To me, Castel Badia, much like the resilient Schüttelbrot, embodies a form of respect that is free from nostalgia or sentimentality. The castle gracefully carries its historical legacy, offering a distinctive luxury that gently reaches towards the Tyrolean skies.