As the planet warms, winemakers face mounting challenges. Climate change is reshaping viticulture worldwide, demanding new approaches to traditional practices. Chile is grappling with a persistent drought, prompting winemakers to overhaul irrigation systems. In California, vintners contend with wildfires and the lingering smoke that can taint grape flavors. Meanwhile, severe frosts in France’s Champagne region are altering grape acidity and taste, although some growers are beginning to embrace these changes.
A recent study from Cornell University explores three adaptation strategies for winegrape producers to combat rising temperatures. These range from cost-effective solutions to more drastic measures: using shade cloth to protect grapes from intense sunlight, cultivating new grape varieties suited to warmer climates, or relocating to cooler regions. The study revealed that consumers are willing to pay more for wines produced with these climate-adaptive methods, despite potential losses in brand recognition, such as that associated with California’s Napa Valley.
The study aimed to assist growers in understanding the available climate adaptation strategies, the costs involved, and how consumers might perceive these efforts.
“A producer can make all the changes in the world — but if they don’t resonate well with consumers, then it’s moot,” stated Alex Susskind, a co-author of the study and a professor at Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration.
The study identifies three key strategies — investing in new infrastructure, new grapes, or relocating — but only two are immediately apparent to consumers. For instance, if a California vineyard installs shade cloths, most shoppers might remain unaware unless it’s noted on the wine label.
Conversely, if a Napa Valley producer known for Cabernet Sauvignon switches to Carignane grapes or relocates to Lake County, consumers would likely notice. “Those grapes don’t end up producing a bottle of ‘Napa Valley Cabernet’ anymore, that’s a Lake County Cabernet,” explained Susskind.
Thus, the factors influencing consumer choices, such as the winemaking region and grape variety, evolve. Among the options, relocating was deemed the least desirable by survey participants, who were less inclined to pay a premium for these wines. Nonetheless, they still expressed a willingness to pay extra for wines made from these grapes.
The study has its limitations. It focuses solely on adaptation strategies for winegrape growers and does not address climate mitigation strategies that could reduce production carbon footprints. The survey included only 300 participants, primarily college graduates under 40, who reported environmental awareness and label-reading habits — attributes not universally shared. Additionally, the novelty factor may influence consumer willingness to pay more over time.
Despite these limitations, industry experts find the findings promising. “This is genuinely valuable work,” said Jimena Balic, a winemaking researcher from Chile. “The economics of climate adaptation in wine are badly under-documented, and putting real numbers to ‘go, stay, or change’ plus the finding that consumers will pay a premium for adaptation, is exactly the kind of evidence growers need.”
Balic believes that winegrowers will likely adopt adaptation strategies only if they promise a return on investment. She suggests that adaptation will likely be incremental rather than wholesale, with producers planting different grape varieties in one area and using shade cloth in another. Climate threats are multifaceted; while some regions face drought, others contend with unpredictable rainfall, hail, frost, and pests. “Wine risk is multifactorial,” Balic noted, emphasizing the need for further research on these challenges.
Greg Jones, a wine climatologist and Oregon winery CEO, was not surprised by the study results. “But there are many other caveats,” he remarked, stressing the importance of consumer education on viticultural processes and climate change impacts on growers. The industry is still determining if consumers can fully grasp these complexities.
“We have a system where the consumer is hard to read,” he said.
Jones, with 25 years of experience studying climate impacts on winegrape production, expressed optimism about the Cornell research. “The research says something important, people would be willing to pay more for [these wines],” he added, anticipating further studies on adaptation and consumer preferences.
