In light of the current political landscape, embracing the colors of the American flag may seem peculiar. However, designer Spencer Phipps has centered his brand around American heritage and craftsmanship since its launch in 2018. Phipps continuously seeks innovative methods to reimagine traditional American staples such as denim and workwear jackets. This season, he aimed to continue his narrative while acknowledging the complexities of dressing in contemporary America. “While assembling the looks, I discovered a narrative,” Phipps noted. “We began with an exuberant, nostalgic, childlike style of dressing before transitioning into something darker, stranger, and perhaps even slightly illicit.”
Phipps’ interpretation of the modern American male—an area where he excels in character-driven design—resulted in a collection filled with contrasts and dualities. He made deliberate efforts to rework classic American items essentially challenging the contemporary definition of what it means to be American. For instance, the opening look saw Phipps enveloped in an 1859 American flag bearing 33 stars instead of the customary 50. “American identity faces intense scrutiny today,” Phipps remarked, intending to infuse his latest garments with a sense of hope. “The American dream embodies the inherent human pursuit of a better life, embracing personal freedoms and individual truths.”
The outcome embraced unmistakable Americana but with unexpected elements. Cozy flannel shirts featured quirky touches like upcycled yokes and studded accents, while western-style chaps were adorned with dramatic Mongolian yak fur. The collection radiated hyper-masculinity, yet the subtle details softened the effect. The more approachable pieces, such as cotton rugby shirts showcasing stars and stripes and workwear trousers with oversized cargo pockets, are likely to become best-sellers. Additionally, Phipps introduced cowboy-cut jeans alongside “chap jeans,” which offered understated references to western aesthetics. Vintage t-shirts also featured prominently, including a style proclaiming “Something Special from Wisconsin!” highlighting his passion for thrifting. “I’ve been collecting vintage since I could afford to buy clothes,” he reflected.
Outerwear shone particularly brightly in this collection. Stylish suede and knit zip-ups, alongside a vintage red knit sweater sculpted like a hunting jacket, caught the eye. His branding even adorned a vintage mustard shearling jacket. A notable new venture included tailored pieces, particularly a range of suit jackets. One charcoal blazer, equipped with a vintage blanket yoke, evoked a true 1970s vibe. “This is a fresh path for us,” Phipps mentioned. “Before the pandemic, we crafted exquisite suits in Italy. Now, I favor suits infused with stories—there’s an element of clunky dad charm to ours.” The blazer resembled a treasured find from a quaint secondhand shop in L.A. or Santa Fe, and that was precisely Phipps’ intention.
