Many of us fondly remember the vibrant colors and dramatic styles showcased during Valentino’s couture presentations, not to mention the unforgettable moment when he and Frances McDormand lit up the Met gala dance floor in 2018, causing quite a stir. All this was achieved while he resided in Nettuno, his quaint hometown—a detail that endeared him to many in an industry often noted for its elitism.
However, Piccioli is now set to relocate to Paris, stepping into the role at Balenciaga amid a significant industry shift, the most considerable we’ve seen since the turn of the century. The timing is perfect, as he and Simona just sent their youngest, 19-year-old Stella, off to university. “We’re all adults now,” he chuckles. “Everyone can come and go.” He describes his appointment as a rather natural progression, noting, “I feel like life and choices led me here. Cristóbal Balenciaga’s story, his creative process, and his integrity made me feel at home from the get-go.”
While we’ll delve deeper into what Piccioli means by this shortly, we must first address the major questions surrounding Demna’s legacy at Balenciaga—the years filled with dramatic spectacle, oversized streetwear, and viral moments. How does he plan to distinguish the brand? Is such transformation necessary? And what is his perspective on navigating these tumultuous times?
“To me, relevance comes from being authentically and honestly yourself. I believe I differ from Demna; my experiences and culture are distinct,” Piccioli answers. “Regarding this so-called ‘tsunami of chairs,’ I think it’s crucial to honor those who came before—embracing the works of Cristóbal, Demna, and Nicolas [Ghesquière] is far cooler and transformative than dismissing their contributions. It would be unwise to approach this as a blank slate—completely overhauling stores, packaging, and everything else is not the answer. Instead, we must navigate this moment with intelligence and set aside our egos. Fashion rarely emphasizes intelligence. We also need a fresh perspective on respect and responsibility, as creative directors hold sway over many lives.”
Interestingly, this perspective echoes a full-circle phenomenon, considering the current fashion landscape rife with corsets and gowns reminiscent of Marie Antoinette. Does that mean we can expect a shift towards radical simplicity at Balenciaga? Not necessarily in the literal sense. What Piccioli extracts from that historical context is a guiding principle: “Balenciaga shouldn’t feel bound by rules. It ought to push boundaries, remaining in tune with the present. That intentionality is crucial. I aimed to immerse myself in his work—to honor its legacy while transforming it, not merely replicating it, as we must remain pertinent for today’s world.”
As for the fashion enthusiasts among us, the Balenciaga ready-to-wear event is set to unfold tomorrow. If I had to guess, we might witness striking splashes of color—that’s quintessentially him. Perhaps, in joining Balenciaga, Piccioli is rediscovering his own roots. This realization struck him during a visit to Getaria, the charming fishing village connected to Cristóbal. “It reminded me of my childhood in Nettuno, gazing at the world from a distance,” he reflects. “Coming from a small town offers a unique viewpoint on life. I cherish this broader perspective—it keeps my vision filled with wonder, allowing me to dream without succumbing to pressure, and seeing every moment as an opportunity in my craft.”
