Rachel Scott, the designer behind Diotima, recently unveiled a new collection inspired by the iconic Cuban artist Wifredo Lam. Describing Lam’s work as radical due to its undefinable nature, Scott expressed her admiration for its Cuban and anti-imperialist themes, as well as its transnational appeal. She feels a spiritual connection to Lam’s work, which she finds full of contrasts – figurative yet abstract, severe yet erotic, poetic yet politically charged.
One of Lam’s most famous pieces, “La Jungla” (1942-43), is part of the permanent collection at MoMA and is known for its vibrant colors. Scott drew inspiration from Lam’s use of color as well as his graphic style for her new collection. Rather than directly reproducing Lam’s artwork, Scott incorporated unusual fabric manipulations such as sculptural handmade intarsias and Cubist-like fabric-strip assemblages. She also paid homage to Lam’s personal style with pinstripes and embroidery mimicking corduroy.
In addition to her signature crochet pieces, Scott collaborated with Refugee Atelier, a New York nonprofit that empowers female refugees through fair-wage opportunities in textile artistry. This season, Scott continued to explore themes of resistance and celebration in Caribbean culture, drawing inspiration from the rich tradition of carnival as a form of resistance against repressive systems.
The collection was unveiled at a raw space in Manhattan’s Financial District, painted in the same shade of burgundy featured in Lam’s favorite room at MoMA. The soundtrack combined Cuban music with Nina Simone and Stravinsky, reflecting Lam’s own love for classical music while painting. Lam’s son, Eskil, who oversees his estate, praised Scott for her originality and strong commitment to expressing and celebrating Caribbean spirit. He believes that Scott’s vision naturally complements his father’s, rooted in identity, movement, and the transformation of tradition into something contemporary.
Overall, Scott’s new collection pays homage to Wifredo Lam’s legacy while making an anti-imperialist statement and celebrating the vibrant culture of the Caribbean and its diaspora. The fusion of art and fashion in this collaboration highlights the timeless influence of Lam’s work and the power of artistic expression to transcend boundaries.
