Lehuauakea, a Kanaka Maoli artist, recently received the Walker Youngbird Foundation grant for emerging Native American artists for their work with kapa, the Indigenous Hawaiian practice of clothmaking. This traditional technique involves using the inner bark of the wauke, or paper mulberry tree, to create garments and textiles. Lehuauakea finds beauty in the fact that kapa is both ancestral and contemporary, reflecting their Hawaiian lineage and material traditions.
Creating kapa is a labor-intensive process that involves soaking pieces of bark, beating and stretching them with tools like the iʻe kuku to form a thin, pliable fabric. The artist emphasizes the importance of patience and perseverance in working with this malleable material, which reflects the natural environment and the hand of the maker.
Historically, kapa was a significant part of Hawaiian culture, serving both practical and spiritual purposes. However, with the annexation of Hawaii by the U.S. in the late 19th century, the practice of making kapa began to decline. Lehuauakea’s interest in reviving this art form stemmed from a desire to reconnect with their Hawaiian ancestry while living in Oregon.
The artist taught themselves how to carve ʻohe kāpala, traditional bamboo printing tools used for decorating finished kapa, and learned the process of making barkcloth with the guidance of artisan Wesley Sen. This sparked Lehuauakea’s passion for experimenting with different forms of kapa, including large-scale installations, hand-stitched garments, mixed-media works, and two-dimensional compositions.
As an Indigenous cultural practitioner, Lehuauakea believes in building upon traditional knowledge before exploring contemporary expressions of the medium. They hope to inspire future generations to continue the practice of kapa making. Currently, the artist is preparing for solo exhibitions in Santa Fe and New York City, exploring themes of Native Hawaiian cosmology and the relationship between language and pattern in their work.
Lehuauakea’s art showcases a blend of ancestral techniques and innovative approaches, pushing the boundaries of traditional kapa making. Through their work, they aim to honor their Kanaka Maoli heritage and inspire others to preserve and innovate within this rich cultural tradition.
