Rory William Docherty, a New Zealand-based designer, found inspiration for his fall collection during a visit to the British Isles, where he was born. His connection with Harris Tweed, a traditional fabric from the Outer Hebridean Isle of Lewis and Harris, sparked a creative spark in Docherty, who has Scottish roots. Immersed in the craftsmanship of hand-woven wool on looms, he translated the signature herringbone chevron pattern into his collection using pastels and oil paints.
Docherty’s collection features silk shirts, ties, a dress with tiered bubble skirts, and a silk velvet coat with exaggerated shoulders. He emphasizes craftsmanship by enlisting local artisans to stuff the coat with 100% New Zealand wool, as well as incorporating glass-blown beads, Scottish cashmere, and hand-knitted pieces from India. His goal is to create practical and durable clothing that balances functionality with poetry.
Drawing inspiration from his father’s blue velvet jacket, which has stood the test of time for 47 years, Docherty’s designs evolve each season with a nod to the ’70s and ’80s. His latest collection includes loose funnel necks, brushed wool stoles, balloon trousers, and innovative shirt constructions in cotton pinstripe. The pieces exude warmth and versatility, allowing for easy styling and layering.
Docherty’s tactile approach to design is evident in his use of crushed silk velvet and taffetas in various colors. He aims to make eveningwear more accessible by creating pieces that can be easily packed and worn without fuss. The collection’s color palette, inspired by iridescent sea foam, adds a touch of whimsy and elegance to the garments.
A standout piece in Docherty’s collection is an overlay of trapezoidal panels crafted from ebonized wood from Aotearoa, designed by his partner Jordan Draffin. The pattern combines elements of traditional Māori woven art with the shapes of Harris Tweed herringbone, symbolizing a connection between cultures. Docherty believes in designing with intention and heart, a sentiment that resonates with his customers.
Overall, Docherty’s fall collection is a harmonious blend of craftsmanship, heritage, and modernity. Each piece tells a story of connection and creativity, inviting wearers to embrace the beauty of handmade garments with a touch of nostalgia and innovation.
