Simone Rocha is known for her ability to transform grand London venues into the perfect setting for her fashion shows. This season, she chose Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor of London, as the backdrop for her latest collection. When asked about her choice of venue, Rocha explained that she enjoys putting her designs in unexpected places, creating a sense of intrigue and mystery.
For this collection, Rocha drew inspiration from Justine Kurland’s book “Girl Pictures” and Maureen Freely’s text “My Dress Rehearsal: or How Mrs. Clarke taught Me How to Sew.” Both works explore the theme of adolescence and the self-awareness that comes with it. Rocha wanted to capture the feeling of being on display and feeling uncomfortable in one’s own skin, a sentiment that resonates both with teenagers and adults alike.
The collection itself reflected this sense of unease and vulnerability, with exaggerated silhouettes and rich fabrications. Skirts and dresses were adorned with crinoline, pannier, hooped trapeze, and bustle, giving them a sense of grandiosity. However, these sophisticated designs were offset by subtle imperfections, such as wonky crinolines and asymmetrically jumbled panniers.
Adding to the collection’s complexity were the inclusion of menswear looks, which featured real lilies and pressed flowers in organza. These looks were layered with transparent or floral-printed plastic, creating a sense of fragility and delicacy. Rocha explained that she wanted to explore the idea of giving and receiving, creating a sense of mutual admiration and appreciation between the wearers and the viewers.
The collection also featured intimate details, such as lace-edged pillow clutch bags and jacquard fabrics in soft floral patterns. Shoes included ballet pump sneakers with a wedge heel and a collaboration with Crocs, adding a touch of chaos to the otherwise refined collection. Rocha described the collection as a playful exploration of femininity, embracing both vulnerability and resilience in equal measure.
Overall, Rocha’s latest collection was a stunning display of artistry and emotion, blending grandeur with imperfection in a way that only she can. By choosing a historic venue and infusing her designs with personal touches, Rocha once again proved why she is considered one of the most innovative designers in the industry.
