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Far-Flung Postcards is a weekly series in which NPR’s international team shares moments from their lives and work around the world.
Seville is in its prime during this time of year, with the scent of orange blossoms filling the air as people wander through the streets. Residents of Seville gather at their cherished neighborhood tapas bars to enjoy outdoor socializing with friends and family, one of their favorite pastimes.
For a couple of months, a favorite tapas dish, caracoles or snails, is a common sight on nearly every table. Unlike the French escargot, the caracoles in southern Spain are eaten straight from their shells and are smaller in size. These snails are prepared in a spiced broth, each bar offering its unique flavor.
Sevillians take pride in their expertise in caracoles, often knowing the best hidden spots in various neighborhoods to find them.
Nearby, there’s a bar that embodies this tradition. Open early for breakfast and serving lunch, this bar only serves dinner during the caracoles season. During these months, it’s a bustling hub every evening. It’s a place where many patrons are familiar with one another, and customers are greeted by name by Meli and her colleagues, Juan and Miguel, from behind the bar.
Recently, at the bar, I encountered a friend who had moved away due to rising costs in the neighborhood, similar to other areas near the historic center that have become tourist hotspots. She gestured to the tables and said, “These people … they are my tribe.” This phrase, not commonly heard, made me reflect on the significance of this tradition in Seville. It’s about gathering at a tapas bar terrace, enjoying caracoles, and seizing the small moments that make life meaningful.
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