Francesco Risso, the creative director of Marni, has officially announced his departure from the brand after nearly a decade at the helm. Known for his unique and artful approach to fashion, Risso brought a fresh perspective to the Italian house when he joined in 2016 from Prada.
Risso’s tenure at Marni was marked by a departure from the label’s traditional haute bohemian style to a more avant-garde and experimental aesthetic. He introduced designs that were bold, spontaneous, and at times even messy, such as the iconic half-and-half “Frankenstein” dresses and cut-out paper frocks. Risso’s focus on craftsmanship was evident in his attention to detail and the construction of his garments, often revealing the inner workings of his designs.
One of Risso’s most notable contributions to Marni was his use of color to create joy and his incorporation of playful elements into his shows. For example, in the spring 2022 collection, he introduced the concept of “Marniphernalia: Miscellaneous Handpainted Treasures,” where the audience was dressed in upcycled garments, adding a sense of togetherness and community to the runway experience.
Throughout his time at Marni, Risso infused his collections with a sense of poetry and whimsy. Each season had a distinct theme, from “two English gardens as seen by Tim Burton . . . with candies” for Spring 2018 to the exploration of “Technoprimitivism” for fall, which delved into the intersection of innovation and the human soul.
Risso’s departure from Marni marks the end of an era for the brand, but his legacy of artful and boundary-pushing designs will undoubtedly leave a lasting impact on the fashion world. As we bid farewell to Risso’s tenure at Marni, we look back on his best work and celebrate his “sumptuous, deliciously playful, and utterly perverse impulses,” as praised by fashion critics.
In the words of Sally Singer, Risso’s creations were empowering and wild, embodying the essence of fashion as a form of self-expression and liberation. His departure may mark the end of a chapter, but it also opens the door to new possibilities and creative endeavors for both Risso and the Marni brand.
