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American Focus > Blog > Environment > The collapse of high-end vegan dining
Environment

The collapse of high-end vegan dining

Last updated: February 5, 2026 6:45 am
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The collapse of high-end vegan dining
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Letícia Dias, a 31-year-old Brazilian culinary student, had her life changed by a meal at Eleven Madison Park, a renowned luxury restaurant in New York City. Known for its world-class dining experience, EMP made headlines in 2021 when it transitioned to a fully plant-based menu, becoming the first restaurant to receive three Michelin stars for its vegan offerings.

For Dias, a long-time vegan, dining at EMP was a revelation. The food, the ambience, and the personal attention she received during her meal all contributed to a transformative experience. The corn velouté she tasted left a lasting impression, sparking a newfound appreciation for plant-based cuisine.

EMP’s shift away from meat and dairy also opened up elite career opportunities for aspiring chefs like Dias. The restaurant’s training program is highly esteemed in the culinary world, offering valuable skills and experiences for those looking to excel in the luxury food industry. Matt Ricotta, owner of the plant-based bakery Manifold, described EMP as a “teaching institution” where aspiring chefs can learn from the best in the industry.

Inspired by her dining experience at EMP, Dias decided to apply for an externship at the restaurant. However, her plans were thrown into disarray when EMP’s chef and owner, Daniel Humm, announced a menu change that would reintroduce limited amounts of meat and dairy. The decision was met with mixed reactions, with some expressing disappointment at the shift away from a fully plant-based menu.

Dias, along with her classmates at the Institute of Culinary Education, faced a dilemma. While EMP’s reputation made it an attractive externship opportunity, the return of meat and dairy to the menu prompted them to reconsider their options. For Dias and others committed to vegan cooking, finding high-end kitchens with exclusively plant-based menus is a challenge in an industry that is often dominated by traditional culinary practices.

Despite the setback at EMP, Dias remains determined to pursue her passion for plant-based fine dining. She understands the limited opportunities available for vegan chefs but remains optimistic about finding her place in the competitive food industry. As the demand for plant-based cuisine continues to grow, chefs like Dias and Henson are paving the way for a more inclusive and diverse culinary landscape. Plant-based cuisine has been gaining popularity in recent years, with upscale vegan restaurants like Eleven Madison Park leading the charge. However, as more elite kitchens step back from fully plant-based cooking, the ripple effects are felt beyond individual careers. Fewer chefs trained in plant-based techniques means fewer restaurants able to execute them at a high level, and fewer chances for plant-forward dishes to shape what ends up on menus more broadly.

At a time when experts emphasize the importance of cutting back on meat and dairy for a sustainable diet, the loss of these training grounds could slow the cultural shift needed to make that future feel both desirable and delicious.

Within the world of fine dining, vegan kitchens share many of the same hallmarks as traditional haute dining establishments — prix fixe menus, meticulous presentation, premium ingredients, and a price tag that’s typically north of $100 per person. Yet the concept of a luxurious, formal, plant-based meal remains a culinary outlier in many parts of the United States.

Historically, special occasion food has been dominated by French culinary tradition, which heavily relies on meat and dairy. However, in recent decades, there has been a shift towards lighter styles of French cooking that emphasize simplicity and freshness, albeit still tied to animal products.

The rise of upscale vegan restaurants like Millennium Restaurant, Dirt Candy, Vedge, and others has helped nudge plant-based cuisine from the appetizer menu to the main course. These establishments have provided training grounds for the next generation of vegan chefs, teaching skills that are essential for cooking fine plant-based fare, such as understanding peak season ingredients and advanced preparation techniques.

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During the COVID-19 pandemic, interest in plant-based diets peaked, leading to a 27 percent expansion in the plant-based food industry. This increased consumer demand for plant-based products could be seen in grocery aisles and high-end restaurants alike. With restaurants like Eleven Madison Park divesting from meat and dairy, vegan fare has become associated with the ultimate level of culinary luxury.

Upscale vegan restaurants like Fabrik, Astera, and MITA have continued to provide training grounds for aspiring vegan chefs and bakers, many of whom have taken their plant-based lessons beyond the haute dining scene. These chefs are learning specialized skills that are highly tailored to the chef’s approach or the cuisine the restaurant serves, further advancing the art of plant-based cooking.

As the culinary landscape continues to evolve, the presence of elite kitchens committed to plant-based cuisine plays a crucial role in shaping the future of sustainable dining. The training and expertise gained in these establishments not only benefit individual careers but also contribute to the broader cultural shift towards a more plant-forward approach to food. The world of plant-based fine dining is a challenging yet rewarding one, as chefs strive to create innovative and delicious dishes without the use of animal products. Pastry cooks, in particular, face the task of mastering plant-based baking substitutes, such as butter alternatives. For Ricotta of Manifold Bakery, his internship at Eleven Madison Park was instrumental in teaching him the importance of using acidic ingredients and salt to enhance flavors, as well as introducing him to vegan substitutes and thickeners that influence his baking style today.

The performance aspect of high-end vegan dining is another element that chefs must consider. Restaurants like Eleven Madison Park have elevated vegetable-only dishes through interactive presentations, such as their famous carrot tartare, which diners mix themselves at the table. This playful approach challenges traditional steakhouse expectations and adds an extra layer of excitement to the dining experience.

However, despite these innovations in plant-based cuisine, the trend of vegan eating has shown signs of fatigue in recent years. The resurgence of meat in American culture, as highlighted by updated federal dietary guidelines championing red meat and dairy, has created a challenging landscape for vegan chefs. In New York City, the closure of several well-known vegan restaurants, including Eleven Madison Park, has led to a contraction in the plant-based dining scene.

While the number of vegan restaurants in New York has decreased, there are still a handful of high-end meatless establishments that continue to thrive. Chefs like Dias and Henson, who are pursuing careers in plant-based fine dining, have faced challenges in finding externship opportunities in a dwindling market. Despite the closure of many vegan restaurants, there are still upscale options like Dirt Candy and abcV, which offer innovative and gastronomically impressive menus.

Looking beyond New York City, the landscape of plant-based fine dining appears to be expanding, even in unexpected places like France. Arpège, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, made headlines by announcing its transition to a fully plant-based menu, demonstrating a growing interest in vegan dining worldwide. As the culinary world continues to evolve, plant-based chefs are navigating a changing industry with creativity and determination. Le Cordon Bleu, a renowned French culinary school, has recently introduced plant-based cooking and pastry programs at its various locations around the world, including Paris, London, Malaysia, and São Paolo. This initiative reflects a growing trend towards plant-based cuisine in the culinary industry.

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However, in the United States, the availability of meatless culinary training opportunities is limited. Two students, Henson and Dias, were enrolled in a vegetarian program at the Institute of Culinary Education, only to find out that the program would be incorporating poultry and seafood for future cohorts. This change posed a challenge for aspiring vegan chefs like Dias and Henson, who were dedicated to avoiding meat in their culinary education.

The shift towards including meat in culinary programs may benefit students who are open to working in both vegan and traditional kitchens. However, for those with strong convictions against consuming meat, the lack of dedicated vegetarian culinary programs in the U.S. poses a hurdle. Currently, the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts in Boulder, Colorado is the only major professional culinary school offering a vegetarian culinary diploma in person.

Despite the challenges, Dias and Henson persevered in their culinary journey. Dias completed an enriching externship at abcV, a restaurant where she gained valuable experience in plant-based cooking. She then pursued her dream of menu consulting and recipe development for vegan dishes. On the other hand, Henson decided to focus on their vegan bakery business in California after completing their externship.

Reflecting on their experiences, both Dias and Henson acknowledged the importance of their culinary education in shaping their careers. While the shift towards plant-based cooking in culinary schools may be limited in the U.S., the demand for vegan and vegetarian dishes continues to grow. As fine dining establishments explore plant-based options, the influence of plant-based cooking techniques and flavors is expected to spread to a wider audience, shaping the future of culinary creativity and innovation. The world of technology is constantly evolving, with new advancements and innovations being introduced every day. One such innovation that has been making waves in recent years is artificial intelligence (AI). AI refers to the development of computer systems that can perform tasks that typically require human intelligence, such as visual perception, speech recognition, decision-making, and language translation.

AI has been integrated into various industries, ranging from healthcare and finance to retail and transportation. Its ability to analyze large amounts of data and make predictions based on patterns and trends has revolutionized the way businesses operate. For example, AI-powered algorithms can help businesses optimize their supply chains, improve customer service, and even personalize marketing strategies.

In the healthcare sector, AI is being used to diagnose diseases, develop new drugs, and even assist in surgeries. AI-powered tools can analyze medical images, such as X-rays and MRIs, to detect abnormalities and assist healthcare professionals in making accurate diagnoses. AI can also predict patient outcomes and recommend personalized treatment plans based on a patient’s medical history and genetic makeup.

In the finance industry, AI is being used to detect fraudulent activities, automate trading processes, and provide personalized financial advice to customers. AI-powered chatbots can answer customer queries, process transactions, and even recommend investment opportunities based on a customer’s financial goals and risk tolerance.

In the retail sector, AI is being used to enhance the shopping experience for customers. AI-powered recommendation engines can analyze customer preferences and purchasing behavior to suggest products that are likely to be of interest to them. AI can also optimize inventory management, predict demand for certain products, and even personalize marketing campaigns to target specific customer segments.

In the transportation industry, AI is being used to improve safety, efficiency, and sustainability. AI-powered systems can analyze traffic patterns, predict congestion, and optimize routes for delivery trucks and public transportation systems. AI can also assist in the development of autonomous vehicles, which have the potential to reduce accidents and traffic congestion on the roads.

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Overall, AI has the potential to transform industries and improve the way businesses operate. As AI technology continues to advance, we can expect to see even more innovative applications across various sectors. With its ability to analyze data, make predictions, and automate processes, AI is poised to revolutionize the way we work, live, and interact with technology in the future. The world of technology is constantly evolving, with new innovations and advancements being made every day. One of the most exciting developments in recent years is the rise of artificial intelligence (AI). AI has the potential to revolutionize industries across the board, from healthcare to finance to entertainment. But what exactly is AI, and how does it work?

At its core, AI is a branch of computer science that aims to create machines that can perform tasks that typically require human intelligence. This can include things like visual perception, speech recognition, decision-making, and language translation. AI systems are designed to learn from data, recognize patterns, and make decisions based on that information.

There are several different types of AI, each with its own strengths and limitations. One of the most common forms of AI is machine learning, which involves training a computer system to recognize patterns in data and make predictions based on that information. This is the technology behind things like recommendation algorithms on streaming services and facial recognition software.

Another type of AI is deep learning, which is a subset of machine learning that uses artificial neural networks to simulate the way the human brain works. Deep learning is particularly well-suited for tasks like image and speech recognition, and has been used to develop technologies like self-driving cars and virtual assistants.

AI has the potential to revolutionize a wide range of industries. In healthcare, AI can be used to analyze medical images, predict patient outcomes, and assist with diagnosis and treatment decisions. In finance, AI can help detect fraud, predict market trends, and optimize investment strategies. And in entertainment, AI can be used to create personalized recommendations, develop virtual characters, and enhance immersive experiences.

But AI is not without its challenges. One of the biggest concerns surrounding AI is the potential for bias in decision-making. Because AI systems are trained on data, they can sometimes reflect the biases present in that data. This can lead to unfair outcomes, particularly in areas like hiring, lending, and criminal justice.

Another challenge is the potential for AI to replace human jobs. While AI has the potential to automate repetitive tasks and increase efficiency, it also has the potential to eliminate jobs in certain industries. This has led to concerns about the impact of AI on the workforce and the need for policies to address these challenges.

Despite these challenges, the potential benefits of AI are vast. As the technology continues to advance, we can expect to see even more exciting applications in the years to come. From healthcare to finance to entertainment, AI has the potential to revolutionize the way we live and work. It’s an exciting time to be a part of the world of technology, and AI is sure to play a central role in shaping the future.

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