After contemplating the establishment of his own design venture, Arsenault decided to collaborate for their Fashion East debut. From the very beginning, their collections received widespread acclaim for their innovative reinterpretation of historical garments often associated with the confinement and objectification of women’s bodies—such as corsets, bodices, and structured lingerie. This pivotal moment solidified their status as key players in the underwear-as-outerwear trend. “When we began showcasing our creations on Instagram, we quickly noticed a shift in perception,” Arsenault states. “An audience emerged, eager to express themselves freely and unafraid of judgment.”
The timing of their rise seems almost serendipitous, with numerous prominent online influencers sporting their designs—be it the striking bleached check flares or the edgy Fang bag. “Kylie Jenner, Em Rata, Bella, and Gigi Hadid: they’ve all embraced our designs since the outset,” Kennedy notes. “And contrary to trendy gifting practices, these women and their stylists were purchasing them directly.”
Caroline Polachek, the American musician based in London, first reached out to Knowles back in 2018 after discovering images of her graduate collection. “It possessed the intellectual depth of Comme des Garçons or Margiela, combined with an alluring sex appeal that felt refreshingly edgy… It was scintillating, slinky, and perhaps a touch wicked,” she recalls, speaking with admiration.
“Knwls is truly the quintessential London brand that crafts modern classics,” agrees Isamaya Ffrench, a celebrated makeup artist and early supporter of the brand. “It embodies everything: comfort, flattering silhouettes, a celebratory femininity, yet remains effortlessly wearable.” This sentiment is rooted in Arsenault and Knowles’s relentless dedication to crafting exceptional clothing. As Kennedy astutely observes, “Much of Charlotte’s early work can be seen as a high-fashion reimagining of sportswear.”
During my visit to their studio, they were a month and a half ahead of their upcoming show. “The overarching mood for spring/summer 2026 channels a ‘slinky warrior’ vibe, intermixed with futurist and Victorian elements,” Arsenault describes, showcasing designs inspired by the dynamic flair of their Nike collection: sculptural corset dresses made from sleek, silver leather melded with neoprene, fabrications fit for a modern-day Joan of Arc aboard the Battlestar Galactica; cold-washed, scuba-inspired cotton jersey pieces; and dainty babydoll tops adorned with sporty contrast trims.
While it is exhilarating to witness Knwls’s rise in prominence, it carries a tinge of melancholy that one of their significant upcoming presentations won’t take place in London. However, they are not turning away from their roots. “We’re considering returning to London for a future showcase,” Knowles shares, acknowledging the British Fashion Council’s recent decision to eliminate show fees. “Our operations remain based in London, where we continue to create jobs and engage with the local community.”
“We view this season as a pivotal moment,” Arsenault adds. “After eight years of following a particular path, this launch feels like the conclusion of one chapter and ideally the dawn of a new one.”
Always pushing boundaries, they remain poised for future innovations. “Let’s see if traditional fashion shows truly align with our vision moving forward,” Arsenault adds with a grin.
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