This New Hotel on a Tiny Scottish Island Is Redefining Whisky Tourism With Playful Interiors and “Wee Drams”

On a chilly day near Islay, one of Scotland’s intriguing islands, our boat glides across the greenish waters, while woolly clouds loom above us. White-tailed eagles occasionally appear in the distance, and the sun seems to play hard to get. Yet as we pass the red deer which have made their way to small islets, and witness the cute harbour seal pups sprawled over the rocks, the serene bay we arrive at offers a sense of peace.

At this location, our captain Gus Newman, a lifelong Islay resident, delights us with a feast of scallops he dived for at dawn. The sun finally breaks through as he starts to arrange them on a grill sizzling with chilli butter. He saves a few for us to enjoy fresh in two unique styles. The first: with only a sprinkle of salt water, cut for a quick raw taste, roe still intact. The second: the “Islay style,” generously doused with Ardbeg whisky. Then comes a lunch featuring succulent crab legs and lobster claws, complemented by more “wee drams” of Ardbeg.

The fragrant, smoky malt whisky experience permeates every aspect of Islay’s life, thanks to its ten distilleries and the annual Fèis Ìle whisky festival. The Ardbeg Distillery, owned by the Glenmorangie Company since 1997 and part of Moët Hennessy under LVMH, has been producing its distinctive smoky single malt for over 200 years, gaining a global cult like following and numerous visitors every year. While originally there were 23 distilleries on the island, only ten sustain now, with Ardbeg being the most renowned.

Their newest initiative? Ardbeg House, an elegant 12-room hotel situated on the edge of Port Ellen, a charming village on Scotland’s west coast. Daily at 6:15 p.m., the hotel’s Islay Bar hosts whisky hour, offering guests the chance to toast the day with Ardbeg’s small-batch and secret recipe “Badger Juice” that has lingering toffee tones. During my stay, I eagerly indulge in these delightful wee drams, exploring over 500 selections available at the House.

Staying at Ardbeg House offers a glimpse into long-held traditions—not just for whisky enthusiasts. The rich history of the island and the artistic spirit of its citizens are woven into the hotel’s very essence. An ornate Ardbeg “A” greets visitors at the entrance, designed in collaboration with Russell Sage Studio. Each vibrantly designed suite and room showcases the talents of over 20 Scottish artists. I find myself in the Fèis room, which takes inspiration from local music traditions, featuring a bed crafted from a repurposed piano. The Monster room boasts a unique croc skin-like wallpaper from Fromental, honoring the island’s mythical “Islaygator” and showcases a lavish four-poster bed entwined with metal serpents. The Smoke room surprises with a headboard resembling neatly piled peat and hides two miniature bottles of Ardbeg Ten in a concealed compartment. Thanks to Sage’s imaginative approach intertwined with Scottish wit, the designs balance sophistication with playfulness.

<“Our goal is to honor the Islay community,” shares Sage during our conversation in the lavishly decorated private dining area, surrounded by a whisky-library-style display of the distillery’s finest selections. “Just this morning, I purchased a piece from a local artist to feature in the lobby. This is just the beginning, and it will evolve. Guests can return and discover something new and delightful on each visit. I feel emotional about departing already!”

Sage, a Central Saint Martins graduate, originally founded his fashion label before focusing on beautifully detailed, vintage-inspired interiors, showcased in places ranging from The Savoy to the art-adorned Fife Arms and LVMH’s exquisite Glenmorangie House. At Ardbeg, the imaginative designs become even more delightful after a few drams.

“We are eager to ignite the smoker and grill,” Ellie Goss, the hospitality director, mentions about the custom-built smoking machine crafted by distillery technician Daniel Brandson, soon to be used for barbecued seafood dishes for guests. “Our aim is for locals on Islay to embrace Ardbeg House as a part of their community—offering spaces to drink, eat, escape, and enjoy the shared heritage we treasure and intend to nurture.” Following my visit, locals can participate in a community weekend to mingle and have fun in the revitalized space.

The hotel’s Islay Bar (which remained open throughout renovations) enhances a cherished local gathering spot with a stunning grass-green marble bar and custom boat-shaped chandelier. Each evening, we enjoy local Scottish tunes played on the fiddle and whistle, alongside snacks. The bar also offers an Ardbeg twist on the classic cocktail “The Last Word,” reimagined as “The Word on the Pete.” In the 31-seat Signature restaurant, artistic metal kelp sculptures decorate the walls, and a grand fire table made from scorched metal draws the eye amid vintage seating. The bold flavors extend to the menu: we indulge in plump scallops paired with sea herbs and saffron-caviar butter, a luxurious lobster dish, comforting smoked haddock chowder, and a sticky date pudding embedded with brandy snaps. Breakfast here is a leisurely affair, showcasing hearty smoked Scottish trout and poached eggs, along with porridge enriched with—naturally—cream and whisky. In our rooms, a handcrafted chocolate bar from Islay Cocoa awaits, infused with cardamom and lemon, named Fáilte, which means welcome in Gaelic.

“Here at Ardbeg, we pride ourselves on our deep-rooted hospitality,” states Caspar MacRae, Ardbeg’s president and CEO. “Our welcoming spirit reflects the local culture and engages all your senses. Regardless of whether you are a whisky aficionado, you’re bound to leave with a fondness for Ardbeg and the essence of Islay.”

Delving deeper into Islay, my companions and I embark on a journey through ancient peat bogs with our knowledgeable guide, Dougie MacTaggart. Piles of the dark substance giving whisky its signature smokiness pepper the landscape. I attempt my hand at peat cutting using MacTaggart’s traditional cow horn-handled tairsgear, a tool passed down through generations. Afterward, we visit Kildalton Church, a 13th-century remnant housing one of Scotland’s most magnificent early Christian crosses. Nearby, Claggain Bay presents itself as an untouched sandy beach, a perfect spot to sip on Ardbeg Kildalton, a limited edition whisky inspired by the breathtaking surroundings. One hazy dawn, we take to the forest lining Kilnaughton Bay for yoga with Philippa McCallum. We conclude with meditation on the pristine sands, overlooking the Carraig Fhada lighthouse and the distant Mourne Mountains as dawn breaks.

However, the highlight is undoubtedly Ardbeg’s distillery, where we meet the charismatic whisky creator, Bill Lumsden, who Beyoncé consulted during her whisky brand launch. Guests of the hotel can partake in exclusive private distillery tours each day at 4 p.m., which promises a lively exploration of Ardbeg’s storied past and cult-like following. We stroll through barrel-vaulted rooms and sample classic and experimental whiskies. One standout is the award-winning Seann Chreag, a rich, treacle-like whisky aged in bourbon casks. Another draft whisky boasts a spicy, viscous profile with a burst of red berries—Lumsden assures me it will be put into production. By the end of the tour, I am compelled to join the prestigious, 40,000-memberArdbeg Committee to stay updated on their limited releases.

I depart from Ardbeg House after three wonderful days of enjoying sips and increasingly whimsical dreams of folkloric creatures within its playful design. A sign at the tiny Islay airport check-in clearly states: only seven bottles of whisky allowed in your suitcase. I leave happily jingling and rustling with Islay cocoa treats and a few mini bottles I cleverly tucked away from the nooks of Ardbeg. That’s the authentic Islay experience.