Amidst global chaos, Torishéju Dumi believes in the power of “loving armor” through clothing, suggesting that dressing up can impose order on disorder, much like crafting garments does.
The debut ensemble pays tribute to Dior’s Bar jacket and is described by Dumi as “almost like a cocoon, a cage.” The shoulder whorls are seen as “horns moved to the front of the jacket, like a cloak,” though Dumi is open to other interpretations, such as black holes.
“I can’t create a world without considering what’s happening around me. It’s a visceral, unconscious process,” she explained. “My creations aren’t negative reactions; they’re responses to the odd, Lynchian world we inhabit now. If it’s a black hole, I want to explore what’s inside.”
She achieved the elegant silhouette using denim, worked on its reverse, along with traditional canvas and horsehair. This concept was also explored with other materials like boiled wool and shearling skirt suits. “I love the idea of not needing a coat,” the designer commented. A black corduroy suit paired with a white funnel-neck shirt, a nod to her initial collection, also features in this lineup. A knitted, draped dress made from deadstock aligns with minimalism but introduces a twist with its back design. The yellow mohair tartan dress, likewise spliced, follows suit. “I wanted to create pieces with a sense of uncanny oddity, yet elegant,” Dumi elaborated. The tartan skirt, complete with a petticoat from her spring 2025 “Ship of Fools” collection, is said to be lightweight.
In a season characterized by trompe l’oeil layering, some garments surprise with multiple sleeves. A cardigan is designed with four sets: two for the arms and additional ones that can be adjusted around the neck, waist, and hem. A corseted dress-coat bustier gown echoes this concept, featuring sleeves that tie over the bust or in back. Dumi’s focus on craftsmanship is evident in a chunkily knotted silk top and skirt, made with her mother’s assistance, symbolizing a shared labor of love and remaining unique. This dedication to craftsmanship, using modest materials and bold structures, earned Torishéju the LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize last year.
Dumi’s background includes attending drama school from ages 8 to 17, later teaching a costume course at the London College of Fashion. Her fascination with 18th- and 19th-century costumes is backed by practical experience. “It’s about world-building,” she said. “Disassembling layers adds a touch of modernity to costumes, making them special, real, and alive. That’s the essence of why we create.”
