Undercover’s Jun Takahashi is renowned for his avant-garde runway fashion, but he also excels at creating wearable pieces for women that are both creative and practical. The pre-fall collection showcased the brand’s exploration of “docking,” which involves combining two different garments into one cohesive piece. This collection featured gray wool coats with coppery silk bomber jacket sleeves, tailored suits with sheer or satiny fabric inserts, punk-inspired tartan kilts, and hoodies with a relaxed fit.
One standout design element was the use of lace strips on jeans that resembled stocking welts, as well as blazers with sheer chiffon panels. The most successful pieces were the cropped jackets with wave-quilted textures and velvet shawl lapels reminiscent of tuxedo blazers. These innovative combinations added a touch of sensuality and delicacy to everyday wardrobe staples.
Takahashi’s signature surrealism was evident throughout the collection, with denim and corduroy jackets featuring dangling flaps of fabric resembling disembodied sweaters, and wool knits adorned with tiny white ruffs and extra neck holes. Despite the whimsical elements, the pieces remained effortlessly wearable.
Overall, the collection seamlessly blended elements of lingerie, evening wear, and outerwear to create a practical yet imaginative range of clothing. With furry back-strapped slippers and stompy leather boots completing each look, Undercover’s pre-fall collection offered a fresh take on modern fashion that is sure to appeal to fashion-forward women looking for unique and versatile pieces.
