What Does Beauty Mean at Jonathan Anderson’s Dior? An Exclusive Backstage Look

“‘I want the same beautiful aesthetic for the girls as you’ve done for the men’—that was the first thing Jonathan Anderson communicated to me,” shared Peter Philips in an interview with Vogue, reflecting on Anderson’s vision for his groundbreaking first women’s collection for Dior in the spring 2026 show. The newly appointed creative director aimed for models to embody their most authentic selves, stripped of overt artistry.

Philips, the creative and image director of Christian Dior Makeup, prepared the models with a soft, “calm” makeup style meant to enhance rather than overshadow Anderson’s carefully curated designs, which included innovative takes on bows, modern reimagining of the New Look jackets, and sophisticated cravats. “I created a fresh nude look for JW,” Philips remarked cheerfully as he greeted renowned photographer Juergen Teller, a staple presence at Dior shows.

At the Jardin des Tuileries, ushers donned relaxed gray Henley sweaters paired with stylish drapey slacks, guiding attendees to their seats. Front-row guests like Jenna Ortega showcased bold fashion in a cropped mini outfit, while Jonathan Bailey opted for a casual yet chic denim zip-up. As the show commenced, a striking inverted pyramid glowed above the runway, with models showcasing bold silhouettes complemented by hats from milliner Stephen Jones, who described their designs as “self-imploding.” Attendees were treated to long knit capes, ethereal lace gowns with delicate, wing-like embellishments, and dresses crafted entirely from shimmering sequined petals, all reflecting Philips’s new penchant for “blossoming” beauty.

“In the past, makeup was more about protection, an armor of sorts. Now it feels more about a blossoming essence,” Philips noted, marking a refreshing evolution in the beauty narrative under Anderson’s direction. This shift is described as a revival of femininity in style according to Philips.

The two began to share insights on their design philosophies during the men’s collection show back in June. Anderson, known for his archival references, was deeply invested in understanding Philips’s aesthetics, even presenting him with a dossier of his previous work with prestigious brands like Alexander McQueen and Chanel. “He wanted to delve into my creative journey,” Philips explained, sparking an immediate collaborative spirit that led to a playful exchange of ideas between the two visionaries.