Fashion shows might appear inconsequential, but their impact on a brand’s success can be significant. When the collection, atmosphere, and overall experience align perfectly, they can boost both critical acclaim and brand relevance, ultimately leading to increased sales. This was evident with Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Chanel in September, which sparked a buying spree at Paris stores when the collection was released a few weeks ago. Public relations teams play a crucial role in shaping the narrative of these brand moments, from selecting attendees to disseminating post-show content. In a market where consumers are becoming increasingly selective, brands must execute these events flawlessly.
From vibes to KPIs
Visiting PR agencies before the shows reveals desks and floors covered with large, color-coded seating plans unique to each agency. Teams gather around these plans to strategize the best mix of editors, talents, buyers, and brand associates.
“A personal touch is essential,” says Hoppen, explaining, “I’ll assess the seating chart to ensure friends are seated together, avoiding potential tension between individuals who have a history of working together.” The goal is to curate personalities to achieve the brand’s objectives, whether that involves generating social media buzz, resonating within specific industries such as art or music, or creating a communal atmosphere.
“It’s demanding work,” states Mumi Haiati, founder of Reference Studios, which represents brands like Blumarine, Stone Island, and Chrome Hearts. During our meeting, his team was meticulously arranging the Blumarine seating plan. “The glamorous moments are the result of extensive planning and effort. While PR still focuses on media coverage, it now increasingly emphasizes how brands can engage meaningfully with culture, especially in an era where audiences are wary of brands.”
Over the past ten years, the criteria for evaluating a fashion show’s success have transformed drastically, according to PR experts. When Lucien Pagès established his agency in 2006, he was unfamiliar with the concept of a KPI (key performance indicator). “Back then, it was more about intuition and feedback,” Pagès recalls. “We gauged success by how well collections performed in stores and instinctively knew which shows resonated.”
Today, data-driven assessments dominate, with earned media value (EMV) becoming a key metric. Agencies measure EMV differently through platforms like Launchmetrics, Lefty, or WeArisma, assigning monetary value to social media interactions like likes and comments to gauge the financial impact of an event or show. “A show can generate millions in perceived value overnight,” Pagès explains. Brands use this data to assess an event and the PR team’s effectiveness afterward. While a helpful tool, Pagès warns that it can pressure teams to focus on quantity over quality and notes that metrics can be misleading due to purchased followers or bots.
