Why Is Everybody Drinking Vermouth?

On a balmy evening in the Berkshires, I found myself at Ombra, a restaurant inspired by Spanish tapas located in Lenox. After leaving a sweltering summer gathering at the Norman Rockwell Museum, I noticed many guests sipping on a distinct amber drink, served over ice with orange slices and, oddly enough, an olive.

I’ll admit ignorance—up until that point, I hadn’t considered enjoying vermouth solo. It was merely a component for martinis or a dusty relic on my bar shelf. Yet, my partner, recalling a unique vermouth he had tried in Barcelona, urged me to give it a try. I joined him, and that initial taste of chilled vermouth was herbal, subtly sweet, pleasantly bitter, and utterly refreshing. I attributed it to the Spanish influence of the restaurant and didn’t contemplate vermouth again for several weeks.

A month later, while in Montréal for a wedding, I dined at Restaurant Beba, a favorite spot owned by a close friend. Looking at the drink menu, I noticed vermouth paired with olives. My curiosity was piqued; I began to see vermouth popping up on menus in a new light—not merely as a dash for martinis or a forgotten liquor but as a standout feature. Pablo Schor, the bar manager at Beba, explained that its presence was a heartfelt homage to family traditions, recalling how his Argentine family enjoyed “vermouth batido” mixed with citrus and served chilled during Sunday family gatherings. “Customers light up when they see vermouth and olives on our menu,” he shared. “It sparks nostalgia yet feels rejuvenating.”

Rejuvenating indeed. Vermouth, once considered passé and mainly a supporting ingredient, is now taking center stage. At the new Dom’s Taverna in Santa Barbara, California, a house-made vermouth sourced from Barcelona is served over ice alongside pintxos. Meanwhile, at Bar Siesta in Los Angeles, owner Heather Sperling curates vermouth flights paired with snacks like croquetas or cherry-vermouth sorbet. “It’s so delightful and inviting that I believe one taste could easily convert anyone into a fan,” she mentions.