For years, the three-button suit has been a controversial piece in menswear, often respected in theory but avoided in practice. However, there seems to be a shift happening in the world of men’s fashion. The three-button jacket is making a comeback and becoming increasingly popular among modern men. This resurgence is not just about buttons but reflects a broader change in menswear, questioning traditional rules and redefining modern style.
The V-Shape Doctrine and Why It Dominated
Classical tailoring has always aimed to create the illusion of an upside-down triangle – broad shoulders, a defined waist, and a V-shaped torso. This silhouette became the epitome of masculinity, with two-button jackets being the preferred choice as they effortlessly create the desired V-shape. The construction of well-made tailoring can make any man appear broader in the shoulders and narrower at the waist, enhancing the overall appearance.
On the other hand, the three-button jacket complicates this formula. With its higher button stance, it creates a more columnar silhouette, which goes against the traditional V-shaped ideal. For a long time, it was believed that three-button suits were best suited for tall men, while others should stick to the safer two-button option. However, times are changing.
The Awkward Years and the NBA Draft Problem
In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the three-button suit gained a negative reputation, thanks to its association with awkward formality and lack of personal style. The NBA Draft became a visual representation of this, with young athletes sporting oversized three-button suits in bold colors, leaving a lasting impression that hindered the popularity of this style for years to come.
Even as tailoring experienced a revival in the 2010s, the three-button silhouette remained on the sidelines, as slim two-button cuts dominated the decade. However, things are changing as designers and brands are starting to revisit and reinvent this classic silhouette.
The Fashion Vanguard That Kept the Flame Alive
Avant-garde designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Thom Browne continued to explore the three-button format, treating its boxy geometry as a design opportunity rather than a flaw. Independent menswear labels also embraced the three-button jacket, favoring softer silhouettes and thoughtful proportions over traditional padded shoulders and aggressive waist suppression.
These designers and brands found freedom in the three-button jacket, allowing them to experiment with proportions and silhouettes in ways that were not possible with the V-shaped two-button jacket.
When Mainstream Brands Start Paying Attention
Mainstream brands are now following suit, introducing three-button sport coats inspired by vintage workwear and utilitarian outerwear. This shift suggests a cultural change in men’s fashion, where alternative tailoring silhouettes are gaining popularity beyond the realm of high fashion.
These new designs offer a fresh perspective on traditional tailoring rules, opening up new possibilities for how men can dress and express their personal style. The return of the three-button suit signifies a departure from the strict V-shaped ideal, allowing for more creativity and individuality in menswear.
As the fashion landscape evolves, it’s clear that the three-button suit is no longer just a relic of the past but a symbol of innovation and progress in menswear. Embracing this classic silhouette can be a bold statement that challenges traditional norms and paves the way for a more diverse and inclusive approach to men’s fashion.
The resurgence of the three-button sport coat in men’s fashion is making waves, offering a refreshing take on traditional tailoring. This style choice harkens back to the relaxed elegance of 1990s Armani tailoring, emphasizing a more casual and comfortable approach to formal wear. Unlike the rigid formality of a traditional business suit, the three-button sport coat pairs naturally with roomier trousers, allowing for more flexibility in proportions and overall styling.
While the three-button suit may not be dominating the tailoring world just yet, it is slowly gaining momentum on the runways and in retail stores. Designers like Prada and The Row have showcased this silhouette in recent seasons, signaling a shift towards a more relaxed and intentional aesthetic. Buying directors at major retailers are also taking notice of this trend, recognizing the appeal of a suit that feels less like a uniform and more like a personal style choice.
However, embracing the three-button suit still requires a certain level of confidence and willingness to step outside the traditional tailoring framework. It may not be the most versatile option compared to the classic two-button suit, but it offers a unique opportunity for men to express their individuality and creativity in their wardrobe choices. The cultural permission surrounding this style is evolving, allowing men to explore different aesthetics and redefine their personal style.
Ultimately, the rise of the three-button suit is not just about the number of buttons—it’s about the desire for more personality, less formulaic dressing, and the freedom to experiment with different styles. Men today are seeking garments that reflect their unique tastes and preferences, and the three-button sport coat offers a refreshing alternative to the standard suit. Whether worn for a special occasion or a casual outing, this silhouette exudes a sense of relaxed elegance and sophistication that is both timeless and modern.
In conclusion, the resurgence of the three-button sport coat represents a shift towards a more individualistic and expressive approach to menswear. While the two-button suit remains a staple in most men’s wardrobes, the three-button option provides a welcome change for those looking to break away from traditional norms and embrace a new sense of style. With its relaxed yet intentional aesthetic, this silhouette offers a perfect balance of sophistication and comfort, making it a versatile and stylish choice for the modern man.
