Finally, some emotion.
Yusho Kobayashi made his debut at Tokyo Fashion Week, bringing a unique perspective to the city’s fashion scene. While the kawaii (cuteness) aesthetic has long been a part of Japanese culture, especially during the Harajuku fashion surge of the ’80s and ’90s, Kobayashi delves into its darker counterpart, known as ‘yami-kawaii’ or ‘sick-cute’—a blend of sweetness and pain.
At 33, this Central Saint Martins graduate crafts all his designs by hand, without relying on factories, working alongside a small team. “I always start with a story,” he shared backstage. “I try to take existing kawaii Japanese fashion and add another layer to it.” For this collection, he drew inspiration from the Greek tragedy of Orpheus and Eurydice. In the myth, Orpheus journeys to the underworld to resurrect Eurydice but loses her forever by looking back. “Death constantly haunts me,” Kobayashi mentioned in his show notes. “I still don’t look back.”
The runway was set in the center of Shibuya’s Hikarie hall, featuring a dais adorned with paper flowers and cardboard tube trees, centered around an altar. Japanese artist Yoyou stood against one of the trees, performing live music that matched the somber yet sweet theme, while models with a distant gaze showcased Kobayashi’s collection. They wore pastel knits, quilted coats, and patchwork dresses. The large skirts, painted with flowers, resembled crumpled paper but were actually made of cotton and satin over aluminum foil.
“I wanted to express separation and death, but in fashion those things are usually represented by black or white,” he explained. “I wanted something darker yet colorful, like a dream where you encounter someone you love who has passed away, someone you can no longer see. It’s like a hazy image in your memory.” Kobayashi named the collection ‘Void.’
This presentation was an impressive exercise in creating a rich world with limited resources, offering a glimpse into a facet of Japanese fashion that is more commonly seen on the streets than on the runway. The sentiment was encapsulated by the phrase “I want to see you again,” hand-knitted onto a patchwork dress, reflecting the show’s emotional core.
