What Sustainable Fashion Can Learn From Dr. Jane Goodall

On Wednesday, October 1, the world lost Dr. Jane Goodall at the age of 91, passing away from natural causes. Just a week prior, the renowned zoologist and primatologist shared her insights with Vogue Business about the significance of empathy, lessons from the animal kingdom, and her hopes for her lasting legacy.

In July 1960, when she was just 26, Goodall ventured to what is now Gombe Stream National Park in Tanzania to observe chimpanzees in their natural habitat. Her groundbreaking discoveries—such as the fact that chimpanzees utilize tools, possess distinct personalities, and feel emotions akin to humans—transformed our understanding of the animal world. In her later years, Goodall dedicated herself to continuous travel, spreading a message of optimism, raising funds for chimpanzee conservation, and mentoring the next generation of scientists.

Her mission often led her into new and unexpected fields. Last year, she collaborated on a jewelry line with Brilliant Earth, specialists in lab-grown diamonds, which just received an extension this month. In May, she featured in Alex Cooper‘s Call Her Daddy podcast, often recognized for its focus on relationships and sex rather than science. Most recently, Goodall participated in a discussion with fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg during New York Climate Week.

Goodall focused on ensuring her legacy, utilizing various means to generate critical funds that would sustain the Jane Goodall Institute’s ongoing advocacy and protect chimpanzees in the long run.

Her latest collaboration with Brilliant Earth exemplified this commitment. The collection showcases recycled gold and lab-grown diamonds made from CO2 extracted from the atmosphere. Included is a medallion featuring an intricately hand-engraved dove and olive branch motif, symbolizing Goodall’s unwavering dedication to peace, along with a bangle marked like a banana leaf, representing one of the primary “tools” that chimpanzees were observed using.

“Each piece serves as a daily reminder that everyone can impact the world, no matter how small the action,” stated Beth Gerstein, co-founder and CEO of Brilliant Earth.

Before the auction, I had the opportunity to meet Goodall in von Furstenberg’s New York flagship office, adorned with animal prints. During the fireside chat, von Furstenberg revealed an amusing story; upon their first encounter, she had frantically removed a zebra skin chair in anticipation of Goodall’s arrival, given her dedication to veganism.

Throughout our discussion, Goodall shared profound insights about life. The world has much to learn about sustainable fashion, especially as we celebrate the memory of this extraordinary pioneer.

Vogue: After dedicating much of your life to living off-grid and distanced from industries like jewelry, what inspired you to partner with Brilliant Earth?

I’m not particularly fond of jewelry. Often, it’s outrageously priced, which isn’t my style. The folks at Brilliant Earth recognize this. However, I became intrigued when I learned about their use of recycled gold and their process of transforming CO2 emissions into lab-grown diamonds, and they allowed me the platform to discuss my observations.

When I flew over areas of illegal gold mining in Brazil, it was jarring. I had witnessed deforestation, erosion, and landscapes turning to desert, but the devastation in the Amazon was staggering. I observed beautiful, clear rivers that sustained various animals, birds, and Indigenous communities being harmed. The color of the mercury used to extract gold was alarming. They were obliterating all forms of biodiversity. That’s why I chose to engage in this partnership.

The jewelry industry is intricate, and many claims of sustainability can be met with skepticism. What approach did you take when creating this collection?

A significant issue facing our planet is waste. Thus, maximizing recycling is crucial. If there is gold available, we should recycle it and give it new life. Additionally, most gold mining globally operates illegally, and the chaos it brings is distressing. It’s the most severe environmental degradation I have ever encountered. Furthermore, creating lab-grown diamonds from CO2 captured before it is released into the atmosphere is another vital endeavor.

Sustainability often involves nuances that can be lost on consumers. How have you learned to convey complex messages effectively without oversimplifying?

Through storytelling, I can share personal experiences that resonate.

Vogue: So, it’s about connecting on a human level?

Precisely.

Your groundbreaking work has reshaped our perception of chimpanzees and our relationship with the natural world. What insights from that journey could be beneficial to the broader sustainability movement?

Considering that chimpanzees share 98.8% of our DNA, their behaviors and gestures closely mirror our own. Back in 1962, during my studies at the University of Cambridge, I received criticism for naming the chimpanzees instead of numbering them, and for discussing their thoughts, personalities, or emotional capacities as though these were human traits alone. However, my then-husband, a filmmaker, produced films supporting my observations about the chimps. I persisted against these views, encouraged by a wonderful mentor—my dog—who taught me otherwise.

The same professors told me that proper scientists shouldn’t connect emotionally with their subjects, leading to so much cruelty. Elon Musk recently commented about empathy being a significant issue in the Western world during a podcast interview with Joe Rogan. What a perplexing statement.

Science had to gradually adapt to the realization that humans are part of, not separate from, the animal kingdom. In conservation, I focus less on species and more on individuals. Every creature, like a little possum, possesses a personality with feelings of joy, sadness, and anger.

Throughout your extensive media presence, how do you perceive your legacy?

I initiated a program for youth called ‘Roots and Shoots’ through the Jane Goodall Institute, active in 76 countries now. Each group undertakes three projects: one benefiting people, another assisting animals, and a final one advocating for the environment. I envision that program, alongside a shifted perception of animals, as my legacy. However, for a legacy to endure, an endowment is essential to sustain the work. That’s my current focus.

What has this journey taught you about engaging people with your passions?

Authentic storytelling is key. Given current global events, it’s a tough climate for fundraising.

During your recent guest appearance on the Call Her Daddy podcast, you mentioned that one of our greatest challenges is the diminishing sense of hope.

If we lose hope, apathy prevails. Without hope, what’s the motivation for anything? Hope incites action, which in turn encourages others to engage.

What factors contribute to your sense of hope?

Nature possesses remarkable resilience. Many areas we’ve ravaged have the potential to regenerate with some assistance. Additionally, the unyielding human spirit fuels my optimism. Many individuals confront daunting challenges head-on without giving up. Above all, I find hope in the younger generation. Once they understand the issues and feel empowered to act, nothing can hinder them; their enthusiasm and energy are boundless.

The contrast between your life, spent in nature and away from technology, and the upbringing of many children today is striking. How can we connect that divide to nurture their potential for meaningful impact?

Scientific studies have demonstrated the mental and physical health benefits of spending time in nature. In Japan, doctors can prescribe time outdoors, which is especially crucial for children. Even a small park or garden patch for planting can make a difference. Programs that encourage kids to engage in citizen science—like tracking migratory species in their surroundings—help them connect with nature.

You have noted that living in a forest clarifies the interconnectedness of all things. With numerous individuals converging on New York for Climate Week, there seems to be a disconnection from nature amidst our attempts to address these challenges.

Nature surrounds us if we’re attentive; just look up to see clouds or glance at the trees. I’ve spotted numerous birds flying past this window while sitting here. Perhaps we should gather in Central Park.

Indeed! How could we modify our approaches to collaborative discussions to keep nature at the forefront of our initiatives?

Upon entering this room, I noted the lights were on. I requested the team to turn them off; my optimal lighting is provided by the outdoors. Small changes matter. Do the events utilize plastic water bottles? Are recycling options available? When hosting large gatherings, what type of food is served? Are participants educated about the benefits of a plant-based diet?

Recently, while at Denver airport, I witnessed a captivating scene of a male sparrow courting a female. He was attempting to impress her with a crumb pollinating while people walked by on their phones, oblivious to the moment. We must learn to slow down and acknowledge what exists around us.