Fresh takes a closer look at some of the menswear designs showcased at the 35th annual Collections fashion runway event at Otago Polytechnic last week.
Seven designers from the class of 2025 studying fashion used menswear as the focal point for their graduate collections, approaching the challenge from various perspectives. Some designers pursued fashion studies with the intention of creating clothing for themselves, while others transitioned from designing womenswear to menswear during their three-year course.
Margo Barton, the Fashion Design program lead at Otago Polytechnic, emphasizes that each designer has a unique motivation and story to convey through their creations. All the graduate students aimed to design fashion pieces that are meant to be worn and enjoyed by individuals, including dogs in one instance.
"The collections led me to contemplate menswear in general, questioning if it serves a specific purpose for men," Barton reflects. "Could menswear in 2025 be redefined as the art of designing, drawing on traditional menswear foundations for techniques such as patternmaking, construction, and fabric choices? Fashion transcending gender, menswear reimagined. Inspirational."
Emily Mason, Nelson, "Voices behind the leash"
Why fashion?
Fashion has been an integral part of my life since childhood, with my dad teaching me how to sew. I can thread a sewing machine faster than I can pick an outfit. With the encouragement of my parents to pursue my passions, studying fashion felt like a natural progression to turn my childhood love into a career. My designs are rooted in the values and love instilled in me by my family.
Tell us about your collection
"Voices Behind the Leash" advocates against animal cruelty while celebrating the joy of rescued dogs getting a second chance at life. This collection combines my passions for fashion and animals, showcasing matching outfits for humans and dogs that symbolize the special bond and the quick integration of rescued dogs into our families.
Any challenges in creating it?
Researching animal neglect was emotionally challenging, but it fueled my determination to speak up for those who cannot. I design with empathy and intention, using fashion as a platform to raise awareness and evoke compassion. The resilience, love, and loyalty of animals inspired every design choice, reinforcing the belief that creativity can drive change.
What is its best feature?
One of the highlights of this collection is the infusion of femininity into menswear. Just as animals cannot vocalize their needs, individuals often feel constrained by societal norms. By incorporating pink tweeds, wrap skirts, and vests in menswear, I aim to challenge expectations and promote kindness and respect through fashion. It’s about advocating for both people and animals while making a lasting impression.
Lucas Jones, London-born, Dunedin-raised
Why fashion?
I enrolled in the fashion program in 2022 because I couldn’t find trousers that fit me properly, so I decided to learn to make them myself. What started as a necessity quickly evolved into a passion.
Tell us about your collection
My graduate collection draws inspiration from Percy Bysshe Shelley’s 1818 poem "Ozymandias," criticizing a tyrant’s belief in the endurance of his empire. I was intrigued by the idea that while power fades, art remains eternal. The collection predominantly features menswear with an androgynous touch, using rubberized denim to convey a sense of luxury.
Any challenges in creating it?
Time management was a significant challenge as I simultaneously prepared for the Āhua Spring Summer Fashion week in Auckland while developing my graduate collection. Balancing both projects pushed me to refine my work process and thrive under pressure.
What’s its best feature?
I take pride in the body of work I’ve produced for my graduate collection, representing the design identity I’ve cultivated during my time at Otago Polytechnic. It serves as a message for the future and reflects the creativity and dedication I’ve poured into my designs.
Nick Medelnik, Frankfurt Germany, "Winters"
Why study fashion?
My fascination with costume design and visual storytelling, particularly through detailed craftsmanship, led me to pursue fashion studies.
Tell us about your collection
"Winters" celebrates life through historical context, material heritage, and our relationship with animal-derived materials. The collection focuses on leather craftsmanship and pays homage to its origins, balancing this with a sharp, double-breasted pinstripe suit to embody the duality of hunter and collector.
Any challenges in creating it?
Juggling the Ahūa fashion show in Auckland alongside this project posed a time management challenge.
What is its best feature?
I appreciate how my collection lays a solid foundation for defining the brand ethos of "WideSkyMine" early on. The emphasis on leatherwork and artistic value in fashion drives my creative process.
Alex Strachan, Balclutha, "Growing Pains (Don’t Cry I Still Love You)"
Why fashion?
Growing up in Balclutha influenced my perception of identity, community, and personal expression. Fashion offered me a platform to challenge norms, defy expectations, and transform personal conflicts into tangible creations.
Tell us about your collection
"Growing Pains (Don’t Cry I Still Love You)" delves into the emotional struggle of outgrowing one’s upbringing while feeling tethered to it. The collection captures the internal conflict as I approach the end of my student journey and seek opportunities beyond familiar surroundings. Each piece embodies this struggle and serves as a conduit for expressing my emotions.
Any challenges in creating it?
Translating personal emotions into clothing without compromising clarity was a major challenge. Balancing honesty with self-assurance, managing technical limitations, time constraints, fabric selection, and harmonizing narrative with wearability all tested my resolve.
What’s its best feature?
I take pride in the collection’s ability to convey storytelling on the surface while maintaining depth. The garments encapsulate my personal history while resonating with anyone who has grappled with growth amidst comfort zones.
Felix Huber, Dunedin, "Gorgeous"
Why study fashion?
I impulsively chose to study fashion after high school, seeking a new direction in life and exploring a realm unfamiliar to me.
Tell us about your collection
"Gorgeous" reflects the emotional connections we forge with clothes, possessions, and surroundings. Inspired by various influences like film, music, designers, and my local environment, the collection epitomizes my current self through refined design.
Any challenges creating it?
Distilling my design language to its essence proved challenging yet fulfilling. Managing time effectively amid other commitments and navigating fabric sourcing limitations in New Zealand presented obstacles.
What features do you like best?
I appreciate the collection’s wearability, subversiveness, and interest. I strive for the pieces to become wardrobe staples, versatile in styling, and exuding a unique flair. The focus on quality fabrics and durable construction aligns with my design ethos.
Socrates Catapang, Philippines native, Kurow-raised, "An Ode to Self"
Why study fashion?
Fashion serves as my expressive language, enabling me to manifest my ideas into tangible garments that align with my personal style.
Tell us about your collection
"An Ode to Self" narrates a journey of growth and self-discovery, translating internal transformation through tailored aesthetics. Each piece captures moments of evolution, blending discipline with humanity and personalization.
What were the challenges?
The precision demanded by tailoring posed a challenge in translating emotions into structured forms without compromising technical integrity. The process tested my patience, focus, and reinforced the significance of craftsmanship in conveying meaning.
What features do you like best?
The embossed leather details serve as defining accents, adding texture and nuance to the collection. These elements symbolize the interplay between vulnerability and strength, enhancing the tactile and visual appeal of the garments.
Willow Coombs, Dunedin, "What the walls hold"
Why study fashion?
Hailing from Dunedin, I’ve always appreciated the expressive potential of clothing in conveying ideas and emotions. Fashion studies offered me the opportunity to create garments that blend personal sentiment with thoughtful design.
Tell us about your collection
"What the walls hold" explores the concept of emotional architecture, reflecting how individuals construct internal spaces to contain and express emotions. The collection embodies tension and vulnerability through minimalist yet intricate designs, juxtaposing raw finishes with tonal depth.
What were the challenges you had to overcome to create the collection?
Balancing conceptual depth with practical wearability presented a significant challenge, ensuring that emotional and architectural motifs translated effectively into functional garments.
What features do you like best?
I am particularly fond of the subtle structural nuances within the collection, where seams, folds, and layers converge to create understated tension and visual interest.
These remarkable collections from the emerging designers at Otago Polytechnic’s fashion program showcase a diverse range of inspirations, techniques, and narratives, highlighting the creativity and talent of the graduating class of 2025.
