After Maria Grazia Chiuri took her final bow at Fendi’s debut show, the audience was enveloped in a cacophony of loud music that made chatter difficult. Despite the noise, industry insiders were eager to share their first reactions to the collection.
Tiffany Hsu, the chief buying & group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa, praised Chiuri’s confident and articulate opening statement at Fendi. She noted that the collection seamlessly blended Chiuri’s signature elegance and intellectual femininity with a punk-inflected edge, all while honoring Fendi’s Roman heritage. Hsu highlighted the extraordinary craftsmanship of the Fendi atelier, which facilitated a compelling dialogue between legacy and evolution. She also mentioned that the collection would resonate with the global luxury client, offering a sense of continuity while infusing a refreshed emotional energy. Hsu predicted that Chiuri’s established following from Dior would appreciate her new chapter, especially in the US market.
The interplay between sharply structured outerwear and delicately constructed dresses was a standout feature of the collection, encapsulating the tension that defines Chiuri’s creative language.
Francesca Ragazzi, the head of editorial content at Vogue Italia, was impressed by the lightness and softness of the collection, as well as the new take on accessories. She noted that the Fendi girl had never looked so rock’n’roll and praised the white collar tribute to Karl Lagerfeld. Ragazzi also appreciated the touch of fandom in the upcycled fur scarves for the five Fendi sisters, created by artist Sagg Napoli.
Simon Longland, the director of buying for fashion at Harrods, commended the unification of the Fendi men’s and women’s collections under a single vision. He highlighted the disciplined palette of black and ivory, punctuated by strategic pops of red and khaki. Longland noted that the focus on texture, embellishment, and fabrication showcased the house’s mastery in these areas. He identified lace, leather, and intricate embroidery as standout elements that perfectly captured the intersection of heritage craftsmanship and contemporary sophistication demanded by Harrods’ clients.
Overall, the industry insiders were impressed by Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Fendi and the seamless blend of tradition and innovation in the collection. The show marked a new chapter for the brand, one that promises to resonate with a global audience seeking timeless yet culturally attuned pieces.
[Original article source: Vogue.com]
