Sacai’s Chitose Abe made a strategic decision to sit out Paris Fashion Week this season due to an internal reset at her brand. However, fans of her innovative designs need not worry, as she will be back on the menswear calendar in June and will resume her usual four-shows-a-year schedule. While her absence may leave a gap in the fashion lineup, the bustling Sacai showroom and the recent fall 2026 lookbook shoot in town indicate that she is still very much in the picture.
One of Abe’s standout ideas for the upcoming season is the addition of a double-breasted dickey jacket to various pieces, such as cardigans, button-downs, and jackets. This versatile piece can be worn buttoned for a layered look without the bulk or unbuttoned with the ends draped over the shoulders for a more relaxed scarf-like effect. According to Abe, this design choice is a statement about the freedom to express oneself through fashion, aligning with a trend of DIY versatility seen on runways from Milan to Paris.
Known for her signature hybridized garments, Abe continues to push boundaries by combining unexpected elements like a parka and a man’s blazer or a cardigan and a blazer. By cinching these pieces tightly at the waist, she creates a more feminine silhouette, while details like curvaceous bell sleeves and bold leopard prints add to the overall aesthetic. In a nod to artistic collaboration, Abe partnered with the estate of Robert Mapplethorpe for this season, featuring his iconic Calla Lily photograph on a black leather bomber jacket. Inside, a quote from Mapplethorpe himself emphasizes the brand’s commitment to seeking the unexpected and pushing boundaries.
The innovative and boundary-pushing designs from Sacai continue to captivate buyers and fashion enthusiasts alike, showcasing Abe’s unique vision and dedication to pushing the limits of fashion. Stay tuned for her upcoming shows and collections, as Sacai remains at the forefront of the fashion industry, blending art, utility, and creativity in every piece.
