Lee Mathews drew inspiration from the 1920s British social group known as the Bright Young Things, particularly Stephen Tennant, for her latest collection. “That idea of being with all your radical friends, in your kilt and your fluffy cable knit, and your coat and your scarf,” Mathews remarked, noting how she became deeply fascinated by them. This theme infused a fresh vitality into a season she usually perceives as dull compared to Australia’s resort season in May, where her brand is set to showcase next.
Mathews aimed to highlight the diverse identities possible within a single wardrobe for this collection. “I really want to make these things almost singular, so it almost looks like this shouldn’t be a collection—these are all things in and of themselves,” she explained regarding the varied silhouettes, which range from innovative outerwear to more formal tops. Her signature prints were sparingly used, but vibrant colors emerged in snug wool knits, featuring a soft green and a vivid carrot orange, created in collaboration with the independent knitwear brand Frisson. These items will be available in limited quantities.
Mathews’s approach has proven successful with customers in both the northern hemisphere and her loyal followers in Australia. Yet, she seized the chance to explore new directions. She pointed out a blazer and skirt pairing, subtly reminiscent of a Scottish kilt, as a departure from her usual style. “I hope that this does well [so] we can keep moving with this crisper dressing we haven’t done a lot of in the past,” she stated. The collection represents “definitely a pared-back version of what we’ve previously done,” she observed, adding, “but maybe that’s the direction we’re going.”
Mathews’s distinctive style arises from balancing exaggerated femininity with practical utility, establishing her as a unique figure in Australian fashion for over two decades. A detailed examination of the collection’s elements, such as short balloon hemline dresses and ethereal dresses in black and earthy brown, reaffirms her unmistakable visual language, even when adopting a minimalist approach.
