“The theme is a touch of mystery,” Zuhair Murad revealed backstage before his show. “You don’t have to reveal everything to everyone—we all need our secret garden.”
Envision this secret garden under the cover of night, a shadowy realm filled with deep, dark hues such as deep green, burgundy, moonglow, and gradient black. Murad’s goal was to blur the lines between reality and illusion. “I try to reflect the duality of a woman’s character,” the couturier explained. “On one hand, she is strong and independent, while on the other, she is romantic, with a pure heart. She loves intensely, yet never loses her essence.”
Blending these two concepts into a single ensemble is a significant challenge, but Murad met it with remarkable craftsmanship. Roses appeared to burst forth from a velvet jacket bodice with a portrait neckline or cascade over a black strapless gown. A long evening gown, part appliqué and part velvet, was adorned with night larks. Midnight butterflies adorned a blush satin bustier gown, and feathered capes landed atop tulle embellished with sequins, crystals, and beads. A draped asymmetrical gown in jade green velvet, a strapless gown in deep amethyst, and a sharply tailored black coat were so striking they required no additional embellishment. Notably, nearly every piece flowed with a grace that has been rare on the runway this season.
Murad holds the women around him in high regard for their diverse beauty, and they hold him in similar esteem. This mutual admiration makes it perplexing that the couturier chose a stylistic element reminiscent of silencing—a butterfly mouthguard affixed to the models’ lips. Regrettably, this choice cast an unwelcome, distracting shadow over an otherwise impressive presentation.
