Marques Almeida: A Surprising Dive into Glamour

Marques Almeida, known for their edgy and grunge aesthetic, took a surprising turn towards glamour in their fall pre-collection. The collection featured long, slinky leopard-spot evening looks, a departure from their usual minimalist style. In a Zoom call from their studio in Portugal, designers Marta Marques and Paolo Almeida explained that they wanted to challenge themselves and explore new, more elegant territory while staying true to their brand identity.

The collection showcased a range of dressed-up eveningwear, including long, slim animal print skirts and pouf-back taffeta dresses with nods to 1950s haute couture volumes. Despite the sophisticated silhouettes, there was still an underlying element of grunge in the designs. Paolo Almeida pointed to the distressed-deluxe contradiction in the shredded-thread texture of the fil coupé fabric used throughout the collection.

Marques and Almeida reimagined fil coupé, a weaving technique often associated with couture, to create a shaggy texture that added a unique twist to pajamas and a witchy mystique to a black halter dress with a flying train. This dark and gothic vibe resonates with the current trend of corsets and bras as outerwear, which were also featured in the collection in their signature denim fabric.

Overall, Marques Almeida’s foray into glamour while maintaining their grunge aesthetic is a bold and unexpected move. The collection strikes a balance between event dressing and edgy street style, appealing to a diverse range of fashion sensibilities.