Inquire about Abraham Ortuño Perez within industry circles, whether among editors, stylists, or designers, and you will discover his impressive background in the shoe domain. He has crafted iconic footwear—think of the paw-shaped boots for Jonathan Anderson at JW Anderson and the trending balloon heels for Loewe, not to mention his collaboration with Simon Porte Jacquemus, highlighted by the geometric stacked sandals from years back and the recently stunning double stilettos. Those in-the-know also sport Ortuño Perez’s charming ballerina sneakers and edgy spiky slingbags—both of which have been… ahem, frequently inspired by countless others.
However, since his standout show at Paris Fashion Week last season, a noticeable change has occurred. Fans are now also donning Ortuño Perez’s ready-to-wear pieces, which had previously been a pivotal yet somewhat understated facet of the Abra brand. This summer, I noticed his cartoonishly oversized surf shorts on several trendsetters, alongside noteworthy editorial features—an open-work dress donned by Lady Gaga for a magazine and one of his striking fall 2025 closing gowns on model Amelia Gray. I’ve even spotted his designs in our street style galleries, including on an editor seated near me during a New York Fashion Week show. All of this signals that Ortuño Perez is finally receiving recognition for the creativity embedded in his fashion.
Now, let’s talk about his latest showcase. Ortuño Perez unveiled his spring collection at a presentation in Dover Street Market in Paris, utilizing ’80s-inspired mannequins adorned with period-appropriate wigs and makeup. He complemented this with a fashion film and a printed lookbook “on a pedestal, somewhat like the Bible,” he quipped. The designer drew inspiration from the ‘good girl gone bad’ tropes found in ’80s and ’90s cinema—think Olivia Newton-John in Grease and Amy Locane in Cry-Baby. He was especially fascinated by the juxtaposition of the characters’ initial femininity and gentleness versus their later, rougher manifestations. This mirrors Ortuño Perez himself, who sports a multitude of tattoos, including a striking knuckle set, and initially presents a tough exterior; his collection cleverly balanced between playful and rebellious. (For the record, his knuckle tattoos feature a series of Hello Kitty characters.)
The collection showcased an array of folded and draped skirts—tailored in beige to mimic men’s chinos—as well as trousers boasting oversized triangular pockets that represented both the feminine and masculine aspects of Abra. Cargo shorts in soft pink satin adorned with rosette accents further embodied this duality. Ortuño Perez has masterfully designed standout jackets—a sharply structured leather piece and a voluminous bomber that emerged as noteworthy highlights, alongside his footwear, which remains central to his narrative: penny loafers reimagined as stilettos and an exquisite fringed suede boot featuring yet another rosette. The triumph of this collection lies in Ortuño Perez’s ability to elevate the complete Abra aesthetic, making it as desirable as the much-coveted shoes he designs on the side.
