Labubu Mania: The Rise and Fall of a Collectible Craze
Unless you exist in a blissfully offline experience, you’ll have noticed Labubu hype is at unprecedented high. Even IRL, you can hardly move on the streets of major cities without being nudged by a handbag bedecked with the fang-toothed critters.
Personally, I love her. Yes, despite her gender-fluid appearance and undiscriminating appeal, Labubu is a girl. An elfin character first created by Hong Kong-born artist Kasing Lung, Labubu was conceived as part of a story series called The Monsters in 2015. Then, in 2019, Labubu evolved into the collectible toy market with a line of figurines that became available through a partnership with Chinese retailer Pop Mart. Later, they were developed into plush toys on keychains—perfect timing, to chime with the emerging trend of bag charms, trinkets, and toys in fashion; Pop Mart’s first Labubu keyring series was called the “Exciting Macaron,” and dropped in October 2023.
Inspired by Nordic folklore, the pastel shades of Labubu’s fluffy body and the gently devilish facial expressions that differ with each iteration of the character are the perfect blend of cute and ugly. She’s the latest in a long line of iconic characters that have emerged from Asia; Hello Kitty, Sonny Angel, and Gudetama are her foresisters. Pop Mart’s Cry Baby series seems to be following fast in her footsteps. Labubu has been spotted on Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and perhaps most notably, Lisa from Blackpink, who spoke to Vanity Fair about her obsession—certainly, one of the sparks that lit the match for Labubu’s now-worldwide domination.
But, as with anything that becomes too beloved, too hyped, too memed, the backlash has begun. In the UK, Pop Mart was forced to pull Labubu from stores after an altercation in a queue occurred in May 2025. Overzealous resellers, it seems, resorted to violence to get their hands on the coveted critters. Fans remain furious with the pause. Labubu is, after all, the number one piece to collect on resale platform StockX.
Some roll their eyes: Why are all these people—not even children—queueing for toys at a time like this? There are plenty of critiques from those harbouring hate—Labubu aren’t recyclable, they’re just a “recession indicator,” a part of so-called “regression core.” The mimetic desire they create feeds into the capitalist whirl of consumer culture! This type of collecting is a silly, frivolous pastime! As British Vogue’s Daniel Rodgers writes: “The Labubu is just another colorful flash on the internet’s radar: Something we consume for a few months until the next trend arrives, kicking off a fresh cycle of thinkpieces.”
Labubu may have reached the peak of her popularity, but only time will tell if she will remain a timeless collectible or simply a passing trend. Love her or hate her, Labubu has certainly made her mark on the world of fashion and pop culture.
