David Koma recently returned from Stromboli, where he was shooting a Blumarine lookbook, before presenting his own resort collection in London. The collection showcased lace, pearls, and pastel colors, a departure from his usual graphic and femme-fatale aesthetic. Despite the similarities to Blumarine, Koma made it clear that he wanted to maintain the distinct identity of his own brand.
Inspired by the glamorous female leads of the 1960s hit series Mad Men, Koma aimed to create a collection that embodied strength and empowerment through soft femininity. He drew from the tension between the characters’ appearance and their inner strength, translating it into garments that exuded power. Floral motifs were transformed into armor-like designs, with silk roses and chrome stems adorning satin gowns and bikini bottoms. Denim and lace were combined to create edgy yet feminine pieces, showcasing Koma’s unique design perspective.
Koma’s reinterpretation of classic tweed two-pieces into sequin-studded cocktail dresses and pearl-encrusted hotpants demonstrated his ability to modernize traditional looks. The color palette, influenced by pop artist Mel Ramos, featured buttercup yellows and powdery lilacs, adding a playful and vibrant touch to the collection. Elements like hazard-tape leather skirts and T-shirt dresses with cutouts mimicking a television screen added a contemporary edge to the overall aesthetic.
As Koma reflects on his 15 years in the fashion industry, he continues to draw inspiration from the past while looking towards the future. Celebrating his milestone away from the screen, perhaps with a view of Stromboli, will mark a new chapter in his career. With a knack for blending softness with strength, Koma’s resort collection exemplifies his ability to push boundaries and challenge traditional notions of femininity.