According to Eli Russell Linnetz, it’s best to perceive this lookbook not through the lens of G.I. Joe or the recent Iraq war film featuring Kit Connor, Charles Melton, and Joseph Quinn, but rather with the playful imagination of Andy playing with his green army figurines in Toy Story. Picture it infused with the nightmarish atmosphere of Francis Coppola’s 1979 film Apocalypse Now, along with the depth of its literary source, Joseph Conrad’s 1899 novella Heart of Darkness.
This perspective encourages viewers to see these pictures not merely as Linnetz’s celebration of warfare or a depiction favoring military themes, but as a thoughtful exploration of conflict’s role in our everyday existence. He also referenced the film Big Wednesday, a 1978 coming-of-age story that illustrates a group of surfers in Malibu navigating the pressures of the Vietnam War draft, ultimately propelling them toward adulthood.
Linnetz named this resort delivery Surplus, inspired by the surplus store as a persistent aspect of “a deep corner of American consciousness.” For those unfamiliar, surplus stores are outlets filled with excess military gear and other items, offering a mix of affordability with an aura of haunted nostalgia and remnants of bygone eras. Linnetz creatively utilized surplus stock he has accumulated over time, combining it with his more high-end interpretations. Styles included patchwork parkas, jackets, ERL camo pieces, soft Donegal sweaters, and stylish cargo pants in vibrant overdyed colors.
The subject of war weighs heavily, and discussions surrounding it, particularly in the US—a nation often characterized by its military involvement—are layered with complexity. However, we can simplify these conversations by following our moral instincts. Linnetz disclosed that he distances himself from the relentless news cycle and hot topics, viewing ERL as an avenue to explore segments of American culture from both humanistic and fashion-centric viewpoints. With ERL, he has established himself as a staunch advocate for American fashion’s vernacular, embedding it within the larger narrative of global sportswear. By prioritizing storytelling—often reflecting on the experiences of skaters, prom-goers, or cyclists—he has successfully woven these tales into the fabric of his collections. That said, the present climate makes the use of camouflage and military elements particularly intricate. Nonetheless, there is no disputing that Linnetz often strikes the right chord with his cultural insights.
