This fall, Ernesto Naranjo returns to Madrid Fashion Week, a significant event since his debut there in 2014 as a Central Saint Martins student. Over the past decade, Naranjo has spent time abroad, collaborated with John Galliano at Maison Margiela, launched his own fashion brand, and began teaching. His latest collection not only showcases his honed skills but also highlights his versatility. While Naranjo is renowned for his dress designs, this season he embraced the trend of mix-and-match separates. “I have always identified as an event designer, and I truly enjoy that role, but I wanted to challenge myself beyond my comfort zone,” Naranjo explained during a phone call.
Naranjo’s collection was built upon garments crafted primarily from circular and square-cut patterns. Some of these pieces transformed into soft, body-hugging sculptures, including a little black dress and a two-tone cape. Other items were multifunctional, such as tops that could double as skirts. He creatively used belts as striking collars, and straw pom-poms emerged from the folds of a pink chiffon blouse, also embellishing belts that some models wore draped over their shoulders. These elements are reminiscent of the flowers worn by flamenco dancers and were crafted in Andalusia, Naranjo’s homeland.
The collection also drew inspiration from diverse sources like artists Ángela de la Cruz and Gillian Theobald, the Gutai movement, and the glamor of Studio 54. The latter was most evident in the draped jerseys and shimmering lamés. As is typical in Naranjo’s designs, closures were minimal, with stray buttons and ribbon ties hinting at a casual state of undress. The opening pieces, featuring crin-framed jersey, seemed to move with a life of their own.
