Rodarte made its debut in 2006, capturing attention with a romantic flair. However, for Kate and Laura Mulleavy, mere prettiness was never the ultimate goal. By their fifth collection for spring 2008, a darker, more daring aesthetic began to take shape, marked by the introduction of their iconic cobweb sweaters. Unlike Miss Muffet, spiders did not deter the sisters; their fall collection featured enormous tulle-wrapped wire web hats, showcasing their expertise in arachnid-inspired design.
The collection features exquisite hand-beaded webs woven into the second and final outfits. Crafted from tulle and a variety of Chantilly lace, these gowns serve as key pieces. Laura described the collection as exploring “this idea of webs being spun and just different ways of thinking about it without it being about decay or things that are deconstructed.” The ethereal quality of the web dresses is balanced by the opening ensemble, which includes a smocked chiffon top adorned with lace that collapses like a slinky, complemented by a hem of cascading ruffles and flowing trains.
Among the highlights are the dramatic, sculptural dresses fashioned from ruched taffeta. Kate aimed to strike a balance between Renaissance and Gothic influences. This collection eschews narrative in favor of a focus on draping and construction techniques. Rather than tell a story, the sisters employed Suspira-inspired lighting to set a mood. While effective, this approach did not always showcase the garments to their fullest. Laura noted, “maybe it was more like thinking about great moments of clothing within film and really beautiful lighting.” The designers’ work is deeply intertwined with cinematic history.
