Exploring Etro’s Ever-Evolving Aesthetic
Marco De Vincenzo, the creative mind behind Etro, reflects on the brand’s fluid identity in a recent pre-fall preview. “It’s no coincidence the last show was titled Flux,” he muses. “Etro’s codes never sit still. There’s no true seasonality; the elements seem to flow into a composition that feels familiar yet new and intriguing.”
Transitioning from the vibrant color palette of spring, De Vincenzo delves into a darker, autumnal mood for the upcoming season. Envisioning a cozy, enveloping atmosphere, the collection features a rich blend of browns merging into deep forest greens, punctuated by occasional bursts of brightness. Garments showcase soft dégradé effects, with prints subtly fading into streaks of color or abstract floral patterns. The lookbook’s backdrop mirrors this mood, evoking the quiet elegance of a country interior transitioning into deep shadows of black.
The collection kicks off with a quintessential Etro ensemble: a striped poplin shirt elevated with jacquard, paired with a brocade corset exuding the brand’s signature textile drama. Wide tartan trousers pay homage to the label’s masculine heritage, while coats exude a relaxed, loungewear-inspired vibe. Structured pieces take the form of sharply tailored, masculine-leaning jackets, adding a touch of sophistication to the lineup.
Elsewhere, the collection embraces a more relaxed silhouette, with flowing floral dresses adorned with tiers and ruching, overprinted trenches lined with tartan accents, and hand-embroidered knits embellished with intricate threads and beads. Velvet intarsia details on denim pieces add a luxurious flair to the casual staple.
The eveningwear selection exudes a sense of boldness, featuring body-conscious dresses that make a statement. Sumptuous tapestry capes in animalier prints evoke a sense of decadence, reminiscent of the iconic Marchesa Casati. “Her spirit inspired the patch-worked blanket coats in our collection,” De Vincenzo reveals. Known for her dark and eccentric style, Marchesa Casati was a figure who once strolled through Venice with cheetahs by her side and a snake adorning her neck.
