Exploring Etro’s Ever-Evolving Aesthetic
Marco De Vincenzo, the creative mind behind Etro, reflects on the brand’s fluid identity in a recent pre-fall preview. “It’s no coincidence the last show was titled Flux,” he muses. “Etro’s codes never sit still. There’s no true seasonality; the elements seem to flow into a composition that feels familiar yet new and intriguing.”
Transitioning from the vibrant color palette of spring, De Vincenzo delves into a darker, autumnal mood for the upcoming season. Envisioning a cozy, enveloping atmosphere, the collection features a rich blend of browns merging into deep forest greens, punctuated by occasional bursts of brightness. Garments showcase soft dĂ©gradĂ© effects, with prints subtly fading into streaks of color or abstract floral patterns. The lookbook’s backdrop mirrors this mood, evoking the quiet elegance of a country interior transitioning into deep shadows of black.
The collection kicks off with a quintessential Etro ensemble: a striped poplin shirt elevated with jacquard, paired with a brocade corset exuding the brand’s signature textile drama. Wide tartan trousers pay homage to the label’s masculine heritage, while coats exude a relaxed, loungewear-inspired vibe. Structured pieces take the form of sharply tailored, masculine-leaning jackets, adding a touch of sophistication to the lineup.
Elsewhere, the collection embraces a more relaxed silhouette, with flowing floral dresses adorned with tiers and ruching, overprinted trenches lined with tartan accents, and hand-embroidered knits embellished with intricate threads and beads. Velvet intarsia details on denim pieces add a luxurious flair to the casual staple.
The eveningwear selection exudes a sense of boldness, featuring body-conscious dresses that make a statement. Sumptuous tapestry capes in animalier prints evoke a sense of decadence, reminiscent of the iconic Marchesa Casati. “Her spirit inspired the patch-worked blanket coats in our collection,” De Vincenzo reveals. Known for her dark and eccentric style, Marchesa Casati was a figure who once strolled through Venice with cheetahs by her side and a snake adorning her neck.
