Francesco Risso, the creative force behind Marni for nearly a decade, is embarking on a new chapter in his career. As he sits in his car in a nondescript lot in Milan, Risso reflects on his time at the Italian label and the unexpected journey it has been.
When Risso first arrived at Marni in 2017, he brought with him a sense of adventure and creativity that would define his tenure. His debut collection stayed true to the label’s aesthetic, with ladylike florals, 1930s-inspired dresses, and bold colors. However, Risso quickly made his mark with quirky, humorous, and leftfield designs that pushed the boundaries of traditional fashion.
From patchwork cocktail dresses to mohair stripes, Risso’s collections were a celebration of experimentation and expression. He created clothing that looked like it had been dipped in plaster, rave-inspired velvet jeans, and derelict chic ball gowns fit for a Mad Hatter’s tea party. Each piece was a work of art, reflecting Risso’s mercurial creativity and emotional depth.
Risso’s shows were just as unexpected as his designs, often taking place in unconventional locations around the world. He transformed runways into merry bands traveling caravans, stopping in New York, Paris, and Tokyo. This creative wanderlust was made possible by the support of Renzo Rosso of OTB, who encouraged Risso to push the boundaries of fashion and embrace daring creativity.
As Risso prepares to leave Marni, he reflects on his time at the label with gratitude and appreciation. He rejects the star system that places designers at the pinnacle of a brand, instead focusing on pushing artistic boundaries and acknowledging the community of artists and collaborators who have supported him.
Looking to the future, Risso is excited about the possibility of teaching and mentoring young designers. The outpouring of support and affection following his departure has touched him deeply, leaving him momentarily stunned by the impact he has had on the fashion industry.
As Risso embarks on a new chapter in his career, his unique vision and creativity will continue to inspire and challenge the world of fashion. His legacy at Marni is one of innovation, experimentation, and a deep commitment to artistic expression.
