“Swim at Your Own Risk,” by Lynn Yaeger, was originally published in the June 2002 issue of Vogue.
For more of the best from Vogue’s archive, sign up for our Nostalgia newsletter here.
Imagine this scenario: you’re alone in a fitting room, under glaring lights, confronting your untanned skin in a bathing suit. This, as some might argue, is a personal version of hell.
“It’s the task women say they dread the most,” explains Necha Treitel, a saleswoman in the swimsuit section of Bergdorf Goodman. “Even those with the best figures need a lot of reassurance during the try-on process.” Recently, Treitel’s offerings have expanded beyond typical Lilly Pulitzers and Gottexes. Designers who previously focused on evening wear and office attire are now venturing into beachwear, creating a market awash with vibrant Moschinos, sultry Cavallis, rugged Gallianos, and butterfly-adorned Guccis.
Much like how Louboutin flip-flops differ from cheaper alternatives in price, high-end swimwear commands a significant price. Yet, this doesn’t deter the increasing number of women who see luxury swimwear as essential and enjoyable as wearing the latest in Jimmy Choos or a Cartier watch by the pool. This trend explains why some Palm Beach residents spend $1,045 on a Leonard of Paris caftan and an additional $385 on a matching maillot, even when a simpler cover-up could suffice. The same principle applies to why not every fringed purse is a Balenciaga.
“This print is identical to what we offer on our third floor,” Treitel notes, handling a delicate silk-chiffon Chloé blouse priced at $375, designed to complement a $235 Chloé swimsuit featuring a whimsical pattern of dinosaurs, sea birds, and a portly beachgoer. “This Missoni cover-up could easily serve as a dress!” she remarks, showcasing a sleek piece in the brand’s signature flame-stitched design.
“Check out this La Perla!” Treitel laughs, referring to a piece made from two metal-mesh panels, resembling a dismantled evening bag. While it may appear to cover the top of a $635 La Perla bikini, it’s actually intended for the bikini’s bottom.
“Yes, we created that,” admits Gianluca Flore, La Perla’s CEO. “But I assure you, everything else we offer can be worn in the water.” With curly brown hair, blue eyes reminiscent of the Mediterranean, and an Italian accent, Flore dismisses any notion of swimsuit shopping being daunting. “Why would it be a nightmare?” he questions, appearing slightly offended. “Is it because it’s emotional?”
While La Perla may tap into hidden desires (does anyone truly understand the sudden appeal of an army-green beaded bikini?), the brand never forgets the essence of swimwear. “We have expertise in the structure of cups and bottoms,” Flore states, “because our roots are in lingerie.” Structurally, La Perla’s tiny swimsuits are marvels of intricate design, comparable to the engineering of the Ponte Vecchio.
Founded in an apartment in Bologna 50 years ago, La Perla maintains a European outlook. “As a foreign company, we observed that a decade ago, Americans viewed swimsuits primarily for swimming,” Flore notes with a hint of disbelief. “In Europe, however, the focus was on the beach lifestyle. Shoppers were looking for a lifestyle statement.”
