Stephanie Suberville’s brand, Heirlome, recognized as a runner-up in the 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, is embarking on a transformative journey. The designer has decided to leave her secondary employment to concentrate fully on her brand, allowing her more time to refine her craft. “I actually ended up making the samples myself because I was enjoying working with my hands so much,” she shared enthusiastically.
Her latest collection is crafted with meticulous attention to detail. The opening ensemble, featuring a top and skirt with elegantly draped fabric tabs, is made from individually cut and sewn fabric bands. This level of detail is consistent throughout the collection. One notable piece, a strapless ruched dress with drawstrings, uses 12 yards of fabric and requires significant labor, taking three days to create and seven hours for the ruching alone.
Continuing her signature style, Suberville incorporates tassels and collaborates with her long-time partners, Madres y Artesanas Tex, on knitwear. This season’s pattern, named “miel” for its honeycomb design, includes two creatures—bees and a snake. The snake, imagined and crafted by artisan Luis Manuel Morales, represents transformation and renewal in his PurhĂ©pechan culture. Suberville enhances this theme by layering sheer organza, reminiscent of skin, over a skirt adorned with the snake print.
Beyond the sinuous designs, Suberville skillfully manipulates geometry, turning straight lines into graceful drapes through precise cutting and tension. A striking red column dress, exuding a goddess-like elegance, could easily belong in the classical section of “Costume Art,” the current exhibition at The Met’s Costume Institute. “The dress underneath is actually a full entire gown and then the top is just a square that has been pinched on top and draped,” she explained, highlighting the clever simplicity of the design.
