Earlier this year, during the second Trump administration, a list of nearly 200 words was circulated among federal agencies in the US. These words were to be limited or avoided as part of the government’s crackdown on what they deemed as “woke initiatives.” The list included terms like climate crisis, clean energy, pollution, inequality, diversity, race, ethnicity, gender, disability, victim, bias, activists, and political.
While these words were not outright banned, the implications sent shockwaves through the US. It signaled a challenging road ahead for fashion brands with a focus on sustainability, as communicating their efforts across political divides was about to become increasingly difficult.
In the aftermath of this directive, many industries, not just fashion, began to retreat. Major banks withdrew from the Net Zero Banking Alliance following Trump’s re-election, leading to the closure of the program. Similarly, the US Plastics Pact saw a significant exodus of members, including food and beverage businesses and consumer retail companies. Additionally, sweeping cuts to USAID forced non-profit initiatives, such as garment worker trade unions and refugee support programs, to scale back their operations.
At the recent Textile Exchange conference in Lisbon, Jonathan Hall of Kantar’s Sustainable Transformation Practice highlighted that 12% of companies had deprioritized climate action in the past year. However, 73% remained neutral, while 12% doubled down on their commitments.
New York designer Maria McManus noted a shift in attitudes, with some circles displaying more cynicism towards sustainability efforts. Despite this, she remains steadfast in her commitment to sustainability, stating that the movement will progress with or without the support of the current administration.
The challenges posed by the restrictions on certain terms have created a more complex landscape for sustainability advocates. However, the resilience and determination of individuals like Maria McManus reflect a broader sentiment within the industry to continue pushing forward towards a more sustainable future.
