Lemaire’s fashion shows demonstrate that a captivating atmosphere can be created without relying on spectacle. Through a minimalist runway and a soundtrack that blends sound with music, these shows transport the audience. Midway through one collection, the sound of rainfall filled the air as giant fans created a breeze in the expansive concrete hall of the Opera Bastille. A male model quickly pulled up the hood of his windbreaker, while another, clad in a more delicate outer garment, hurried as if seeking shelter. In the midst of an overwhelming Paris heatwave, this subtle downpour simulation highlighted Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s meticulous attention to detail in crafting their vision.
Initially, the collection appeared to favor designs in cotton voile and mesh, characterized by their lightweight, occasionally transparent, and loosely structured pale hues. Examples included a women’s lemon sorbet blouse and a men’s double-layered shirt in gradient beige and violet. However, the collection later introduced more robust materials and deeper, wood-like shades, such as a unique leather-effect lacquered denim and a sculpted brown dress with contours that seemed to mimic the flow of wind.
Lemaire and Tran also explored themes from late artist Claudine Wick, known for her contributions to the erotically-themed Plexus magazine in the late 1960s. They found that the process of connecting with her family added depth to their work. “It’s eroticism, but in a dreamy way, and from a woman’s point of view, which is always interesting,” Lemaire remarked. To clarify, the designs were neither explicit nor gratuitous. Tran expressed their aim for a sense of tranquility this season, emphasizing, “To take more time and be sensitive to things that don’t shout. It’s about being a bit more present to things that you see and feel.”
A notable aspect of Lemaire shows is their casting, which reflects a preference for “characters” who embody the clothes. The models in the latest show were both diverse and distinct, carrying bags in a manner reminiscent of real people on the street. Many paired their sophisticated outfits with flip-flops, clearly indicating a sense of ease. The racer-back, coiled neckline dress in vibrant vermillion knit, which appeared early and then returned as the final look, added a striking element to this sophisticated and straightforwardly cool presentation.
