Last season, Rolf Ekroth’s attempt to showcase his collection from Finland to France was thwarted, but this spring he was intent on making a significant impact. “From a business side we need to grow, we need to get sales, we need to be more present where things happen,” Ekroth stated during a Zoom interview. However, as a former professional poker player, he was not inclined to play it safe. “Paris feels like it’s serious and then I made a very playful collection,” he remarked, planning an energetic after-party rave at the Mia Mao club, which can hold about 2,500 people, the same venue where the show was held.
The collection was inspired by Ekroth’s love for pick-and-mix candy—sour skulls, Salmiak licorice, chewy gummy bears, among others. He incorporated images of these sweets into a Fair-Isle style sweater. Collaborating with Matilda Diletta, he designed a print featuring candies arranged like a sailor’s tattoo.
The first ensemble featured a raincoat and pleated skirt, ideal for Finland’s unpredictable summers, crafted from a gold polyester reminiscent of crinkly candy wrappers. The look was completed with a reimagined fisherman’s cap, enhanced with spiked cutouts, transforming it into a crown worthy of a Candy King—a nod to a Finnish confectionery brand.
Ekroth’s creations blend practicality with whimsy, making them both unique and unforgettable. Utilizing mainly Italian and Japanese fabrics, Ekroth injects a playful charm, which he terms humor, into garments that fuse elements from technical gear, gorpcore, streetwear, uniforms, and rave culture, all while maintaining ties to his Finnish roots.
This season, blazers, jackets, and pants featured pill- or Good & Plenty-shaped zipped pockets, “originally conceived for extreme candy storage,” according to the notes. Gummy bear pendants dangled from D-rings, shirts had hoods, and track pants and shorts were striped. The unusual color combinations, such as those on a mocha and peach anorak, were delightful. This season’s signature one-piece was a silver-quilted design resembling packaging from the Finnish dairy company Valio, a partial show sponsor. Ekroth noted that Valio’s butter is a favorite among high-end Parisian bakeries.
Honoring traditional couture practices, the show concluded with a bridal ensemble for a groom. Featuring a pink, green, and ivory floral print, it combined side-striped, deeply gored, and pleated oversized pants with a padded, backless top that mimicked an avant-garde life vest. For independent designers like Ekroth, the stakes are always high, but this collection made a vivid impact, offering a refreshing alternative to conventional and dull designs.
